Friday, December 13, 2013

Episode 12: The Weetabix guy

A few weeks ago we visited Bleau twice but temperatures were far too low for me to climb. My body cannot function at 2 degrees Celsius. I'm Mediterranean, for crying out loud! I'm definitely spending next autumn/winter in a hotter climate.
The second time, we went to Éléphant. It was my first time visiting and I was eager to try its famous two-finger pockets but my fingers were frozen all day. I only sent two mini-high balls to get my blood pumping.
This one was a bit trickier...

Speaking of high balls, here's another one I sent back in August at Gorges du Houx. We hadn't found it on bleau.info but all holds were covered with chalk. It doesn't seem very scary in the video but at the end of the diagonal trav, you're already four meters from the ground and then you've got another 4 or 5 meters of vertical climbing. I would give it a 6A.

A few days ago and after having cancelled at the last minute three days in a row, I gave Bleau another chance and visited Rocher Canon. According to the weather channel, no rain had dropped for at least seven days and I was ultra-motivated to send my big projects. When we arrived, everything was soaking wet. We were disgusted and frustrated. That was a deal breaker for me. I had promised myself that I wouldn't go back to Bleau for the winter if I didn't send La Mare (engl. "pool, pond") on that day. As soon as we approached the boulder, we discovered that it had succumbed to the winter rain and had become a pool at least 30 cms deep.
Since the beginning of November, I have been trying out my new training schedule - jumps, dynos, arm locking, a lot of contortions and violent shoulder locking - at the gym and it has been paying off. I am sending a lot of routes in the 7th degree quite easily and already have two 7Cs under my belt. My project for the next two weeks is an 8A, 15-meter trav in a 60-degree underhang. I have sent most of the moves and I'm rather optimistic for the ones I haven't sorted it out yet. I sent the 7B trav on the same wall in only two sessions and I'm almost done with the moves of the 7C route.
After spending five months without lead climbing, I went back to Murmur Issy for a seven-hour session. I sent two 7a+'s, finished all the moves of another 7a and sent another ten, <7a routes. I was rather pleased with my performances on the underhanging walls. Hopefully, I will have the chance to lead climb at least once a week for the next three to four months.
Tomorrow is the opening of a new gym: Hardbloc. The premises seem exciting and entrance is free for the entire weekend so I'll have the chance to climb with many of my new and old friends. That's a great way to spend a weekend. I'm being careful with my left index (I got a crevasse between the distal and the intermediate phalanges) because it started bleeding two days ago. I was working on an intriguing 7A at the gym, my finger started getting red, I knew it was going to start bleeding but I didn't want to stop. I wanted to give the route just one last try. You don't have to guess the outcome, you know me better than that :-)
Last week I made an important decision that will most definitely motivate me even more. Most climbers, even amateurs like myself, dream of getting sponsored one day. For me, it is not about the money. I know I will never become a professional climber; I wouldn't want that kind of pressure on myself and besides, that would take years and years. It's about your hard work getting acknowledged. I admit, it sounds absurd: we are climbers because we love climbing and not out of an insane need to please others and yet, we need an external source of gratification. Maybe it is vanity, I honestly don't know. 
Anyway, I decided to pursue the one company I have adored for many years: Weetabix. I have been consuming two to three packs a week of their main product and have a lot of respect for their mentality. Their biscuit format has been helping me control my calorie intake and from a nutritional standpoint, they are the best cereal out there (only rivaled by Kellog's All-Bran that are a tad more expensive and slightly heavier on sugar and salt). I have therefore given myself 18 months to come up with a project to attract their attention. If only half of my new year's resolutions go as planned, I will get one step closer to becoming the (new? first?) Weetabix guy. It's a bird, it's a plane, it's the Weetabix guy!

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Episode 11: One day you're a champion, the next day you're back to feeling like a f*cking loser...

After a few days of rain, it was time for me to join the gym. For the next 12 months, I have chosen BlockOut'2. I spent Sunday and Monday at the gym and then the weather channel promised three straight days of sunshine; that got the smile back on my face.... an opportunity for me to send a few more ongoing projects!
On Tuesday, I joined a friend at Franchard Isatis with one thing and one thing only on my mind: Le Lot de Boudins (7C). After slagging off for 30 minutes, I tried to calm myself down, I brushed the handholds and tested the key hold: a sloper that I hadn't been able to hold on to for the past four months. The moment I touched it, my hand slipped and my heart froze. I kept screaming "F*ck" in my head at the top of my ... synapses. I just had to do something about my fingers. Having slippery fingers AND a half-injured right index doesn't leave me with much (hence my lackluster performance this summer). Then I recalled an article I had recently read about the (in)efficiency of chalk and how humidity might provide some extra adhesion. I thus came up with a trick: I washed my hands and when they were about to completely dry off, I applied some chalk. The idea behind this was that the water would help accentuate the ridges of the finger prints so that chalk could enter them better. I tested the sloper and voilà! I tried to send the problem but my already-successful-in-April beta needed some tweaking. The two big moves were too haphasard therefore I started working on a new beta for half an hour. Three tries later.... in the pocket! I think my beta can become a classic since it has been optimised and it suits all sizes. Moreover, I sent it without much effort, which gave me hope for the there-and-back version (7C+). Plus, my moves are cool :-)

The day ended with De Brevitate Vitae gauche (7A). I had sent the right exit version back in March (my second 7A ever).

The next day started with Babaobab (7B, Rocher Canon). The slopers are so slippery that you have to find the perfect weather conditions. I sent the sitstart like it was nothing (once again) but the rest of it was still impossible. The sun had been hitting the slopers for more than an hour and by 9:15 (that's how motivated I was), it was already too late. I will go back on a gloomy day in December-January.
After that, I headed for Cuvier to finish two problems and try out a new 7B. Gradubidov (7A) was first. I had almost sent it a few days earlier. After 45 minutes, she was mine. I like this type of boulders: weird dynos, compression and hand/foot matching.

Banlieue Nord direct (7A) is a very tough boulder. This was going to be my fourth session on it. Apart from the starting hold, everything else is a sloper. The last part is hardcore: a nasty left foothold and diagonal slopers... what's not to like? The first move consists in reaching for a left-hand sloper which is the key hold. If that one doesn't hold, you switch to a different boulder. I washed my hand and gave it a try. The adhesion was brilliant and I got optimistic. After an hour and a half, I sent it! The exit was a bit ugly (I used both knees) but I was too ecstatic to care.

I finished my session with Rencontre Plafonnique (7B). I almost got the sitstart but the heel hook was extremely painful. After only one try, it was throbbing but I kept going at it. I touched and almost grabbed the hold at least 7 times, which is a good sign. The next move seems quite morpho. I sent the rest of the problem three times. I will go back for that first move.
Today (Thursday): I planned to visit three sectors for three different projects. First one: Master of Puppets. It took me an hour and a half to get that first move right, which made me lose my marbles. I got another two moves but the key move (a left heel hook) wasn't right. I got furious and decided to leave. This was the first time I ever quit a project and ended my session this abruptly. Having lost all motivation, I didn't want to work on the other projects. I returned to the train station yet after a short break, I left for Roche d'Hercule. There is a 7A+ trav that I hadn't finished yet (always wet) and I also had to finish the easy version of my own trav (6B+/C?). It took me 10 minutes to reach the parking lot (that's fast!) but both boulders were wet. I got even more frustrated and headed back to the station. I needed to get back home so bad that I covered the distance in only 8 minutes.
My failure on Master of Puppets got me thinking that I need to find a source of happiness in my life. Bouldering is great but 95% of the time, I feel frustrated, disgusted with myself or mad. As soon as I get a problem right, a failure will come along and take that away from me. I need to cool down and change my perspective and the way I deal with failure. And I obviously need to focus on my work (programming) and my side projects to get some self-respect. I can send a hundred 7B's but there's always going to be a failed boulder buzzing around in my head.
Now that I have joined the gym, I will give it my all. I have three priorities: dynos, arm/shoulder locking and travs in roofs. I have come up with some exercises that might help me advance in a rapid pace. Tomorrow I'm back at the gym doing pull-ups with added weight. My previous max was 22.5 kilos so I will try 25 kgs or maybe more.
And here's a gift: a montage of 22 (I think) attempts on Magic Bus (7B+) that I tried a few days ago. You will enjoy the sound of my ass hitting the pad.

Update: I just watched my video of Master of Puppets and I was actually not half as bad as I thought. I'm feeling much better now, I will be able to sleep tonight.

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Episode 10: Nothing special

Sunday, October 6: Roche d'Hercule. The roof was wet again so I decided to explore the adjacent boulders. Just 100 meters away, I found a great wall for my warm-up and immediately got the idea to open a 25-meter traverse!
According to the topo and curiously enough, there was nothing opened. I started working the left-to-right trajectory after realising the other way around wasn't as appealing. Before trying out the holds, I saw two problems: one that traverses low and another one using the top holds; around 7A and 6A respectively. I was in for a big surprise. After 2 hours of hard work, I was able to send all the moves of the low-pass trav but she was exhausting as hell. The best/worst element: there is a 7A crux at 18-19 meters from the beginning hold! It took me 10/15 tries to figure out that sequence and I only got it right once. Same thing with the first crux: a sequence of 4 moves in the 6C/7A, five meters from the beginning. I then tried to at least send the easy trav but she was too long. I only got 15 meters. I need another session with her.
While working on the travs, I tried out Fenbren le Fou (7B) with my buddies. I put 3 attempts using a friend's beta although I knew it wouldn't work but he was insisting. After that, I tried out a "harder" beta and sent it in only three tries. Probably a 7A/7A+. But after having a debate with a friend, I am having some doubts about our betas. We used a hold that the setter doesn't use.
Monday: climbing alone. I first went to Rocher Canon. And no, I did NOT touch La Mare. I've been patiently waiting for 5 months for the perfect weather conditions and though I knew it wasn't the day, I needed to try Babaobab (7B) again. I warmed up a bit and then summoned up all my courage for the sitstart. I consider the first move to be a solid 7A+/7B and wasn't sure I was going to get it. I was able to send that move in 10-15 tries in May but since then, nothing! Since May, I lost weight, worked my biceps and got much stronger in shoulder/arm locking, all being key ingredients for this move. First try, I dynoed too hard and went beyond the hold! Second try, I touched the sloper/pinch but couldn't hold it. Third try: she's mine but still a bit too shaky. I then found a lower hold for my right foot and sent it like it was nothing. The rest of the problem is based on your ability to hold on slopers and the weather was still too hot. I need to wait for another 2-3 weeks. I couldn't even do a pull-up on the slopers which is always my way of knowing.
I got back on my bike; destination: Bas Cuvier. I wanted to revisit two boulders: Super Bouze (7A+) and Banlieue Nord direct (7A). I tried them both in June but wasn't able to go past the first move (actually, I couldn't even do the start of the Bouze). After 90 minutes on the latter, I got 1.5 moves this time! I still don't know yet whether my beta is correct and I can't find any videos online. I almost sent Banlieue Nord direct but kept (six times) falling on the last move.
Tuesday: the great deception! I wrote down 15*7A/B projects in Cuvier and went back. I tried to send Banlieue but the first hold was very slippery. I put another four tries but I knew it wasn't going to cut it. I spend 1.5 hours looking for the other projects. I only found 3 or 4 and they were either too ugly or too difficult. I ended up doing a circuit but Cuvier, as everyone knows, is over-visited so footholds have been polished for many years.
Wednesday: the team was back together. Two new sectors: Avon and Avon Ouest. We started Master of Puppets (7B). Such a beautiful line. I almost sent it and then, after a short break, I couldn't get past the first move any more. This is why I hate taking breaks. My body forgets too easily.
The first part of Retour de Bas-Ton (7A) was rather simple but the end was quite physical. Nice line as well.

La Voûte Étoilée (7A) was quite easy as well. I almost flashed it but it finally took me around five tries.

On Saturday, we went to Rocher Brûlé. Everything was wet so we found a tunnel to work on. Éclair à la Vanille (7B) and Éclair au Chocolat (7B) are practically the same problem; only difference is the exit, hardly a 5B in either case. After a few tries, we almost had gotten the moves right but then, my friend ripped off the key hold - a huge jug. I think the problems are still doable but rather in the 7B+/7C (not sure about this). This is what happens when you are not light as a feather.
We immediately left for Buthiers Piscine where my friend wanted to revisit Magic Bus (7B+). This roof has no breakable holds so we weren't hesitant about trying it out. We got all the moves right (it took me more about an hour and a half) but sending it was not in the cards. The tricky part is the dyno out of the roof. I got the move only once so I kept working on it before attempting to send it. No luck... I tried another beta but it was as difficult.
After a few days of rain, I went back to Canche aux Merciers to send some old projects dating back to April. The conditions were not good enough: slippery fingers and slimy holds. It's been months that I have no fingerprints so I can't hold a sloper to save my life. My sense of touch is 95% gone and I don't even know when my finger tips are wet (I use my wrist to test the humidity of the rocks). At that moment, I decided to do some hiking.
Le circuit des 25 bosses is a well-known, 20-km hiking circuit that traverses the Trois Pignons Forest. I started at 12:15 and tried it counter-clockwise. After getting lost in the first part, I went back to the starting point and went the other way. I started up at 2:00 and was able to finish it in 4 hours! It was quite difficult. half way, The pain started settling in but I wouldn't go back, I had to do it. When I got back to the starting point, my body was aching very hard, I couldn't bend my legs and I kept wondering how I was supposed to get on my bike and pedal for another 15 km back to the train station. Miraculously, as soon as I started biking, nothing else mattered! It only took me 55 minutes to the station, which is the fastest I had been. Miracles can happen after all. Well, it depends on your definition of a miracle because at this moment, two days later, I still can't stand on my left foot.
One good thing came out of this hiking journey, however: I am now at 56.5 kilos!

Saturday, October 5, 2013

Episode 09: Fed up with cycling

Dieting and cycling are taking a toll on my body. It's been a month I've been taking my bike to Font', cycling for 40 minutes at a time, with 5-6 kilos of equipment on my back. This, combined with the reduced amount of food I've been receiving because of my diet, does not allow me to perform at 100%. For some reason, I am able to cover the same distances in the same amount of time or less but each time, it is getting harder and harder.
Of course, sacrifices have to be made. I needed to get my weight down and this goal is being achieved. For the past four days, my weight has been stabilised at 57 kilos (from 60.5 at the end of August) and I am hoping to reach 55 kilos by the end of this month. After that, crimping will be more pleasant and I'll be sending crimpy problems much faster.
On Friday, I went to Roche d'Hercule to try out a nice roof. There are at least seven distinct problems on that roof and I just needed to get a bite of all that. I started with Rince-Doigts (7A). After reading the problem, I hesitated between two betas. As always, I opted for the less feasible one and missed the flash. A second try was all it took. Not really a 7A.

My favourite one was Rince-Mi (7A). I tried to send it statically but the two-finger holds were too painful. I decided to dyno my way out of the roof; it took me another 20 minutes to master the move. This said, I didn't mind this delay because I loved the exit.

Idée Courte (6B+), Idée Fixe (6C+) and Idiotie (6B) were easy flashes. Traversing the exterior side of the roof is ugly due to its slabby nature that does not allow you to use your feet effectively. I didn't enjoy those moves. You are holding huge jugs at all times but the foot placement is simply ugly. The videos are here, here and here.
Trop Beau pour Toit (7A+) seemed like a piece of cake. The first part is the same as Idée Courte but you then traverse to the left. I misread the description and introduced unnecessary "eliminants" (the finger holds under the roof) and the problem quickly became too hard.
Abribus (7A+) is a right-to-left-to-right-to-left-then-up-the-roof loop. There must be about 35 moves in it and I was tired. I gave it 3 tries but kept falling after three-thirds of the problem.
On Monday, the rocks were wet. We went back to Apremont but we had to wait for a few hours. I started with a nice mantle, (Tank, 6B+). My topo gave it a 7A+ and I wanted to confirm the grade. Sadly, the bleau.info 6B+ grade was correct. I flashed it without breaking a sweat and while the rock was all wet.
The only boulder dry enough was Hueco Départ (7A). It took us 8 tries. The sitstart is very easy but the third move is pure compression at around 7A+. The last part is supposed to be a 5B but I would give it at least a 6B/+. Plus, you do not have the right to fall because there's a nasty, sharp rock calling out your name.

Next day I woke up and was dying to wrap up some old projects. Destination: Franchard Cuisinière. I started my warm-up with S'il Vous Plaît (7A). That boulder almost drove me crazy last time I tried it. Every single team member had sent it except me. Although its rather morpho nature makes the obvious beta (dyno to the right-hand jug) difficult, I would not give up. During that first session, I had put almost 50 tries in less than an hour. Some call this perseverance but let's be honest: its real name is OCD. This time, I knew what I needed to do: dyno my butt toward that three-finger left-hand crimp. It only took me five tries and got me all pumped up for the next project.

Undertow (7A)... what a hellish nightmare! It must be how Hades used to punish naughty climbers. I had already spent 3 sessions on this rock and each time, I had to start from scratch. I don't know why, I just couldn't figure this out. This time, motivated by my previous success, I gave it my all. About 8 attempts in, I got it! Unfortunately, the exit was as ugly as an exit can get.

I finished my day with La Mouche (7B+). I sent the last move back in May and the rest of it around June so I was optimistic. This time I pulled off all but the last move, which I had done on my first try in May.
Wednesday: I woke up at 7 a.m. to get to climb all day. Destination: Isatis. Unfortunately, it had rained all night and everything was soaked yet we were able to work a few boulders. Respect d'Intention (7A) was tough but after an hour, we finished all the moves. Then this nameless 7A with one of the ugliest exits I've seen. After that, I finally got to try El Poussah (7A), a classic. Given that the intended right toe hook was out of my reach, I tried a straightforward approach. I now have to learn how to hold on that right-hand sloper without my right foot slipping. Humidity didn't help but either way, I need another 50 tries to master that move. But I'm rather confident. I just saw a video of this boulder and will change my beta next time: I will use a left foot for the first move so that I can free my right foot.

Friday, September 27, 2013

Episode 08: Man vs. Pitch black: 1-0

These last days, I have been feeling stronger and stronger.
On the 18th (Wednesday), we went back to Marion des Roches to finish some projects. Sans Pompe (7A+) was the first one. It had rained on the eve and everything was slippery. I gave it a try and fell on the first move. I got frustrated and very, very cranky but thanks to team spirit and healthy competition (I wasn't letting my friends send it without me), bada boom!

After more than an hour on Mise en Boîte assis and an almost successful last try, the night started settling in, and we went back to Bi-Steack. I was given 30 minutes to send it but wasn't feeling it so I only tried the difficult move. Surprisingly and after only 3 attempts, I got the move right twice in a row! It is now only a matter of time.
Friday: back to Demoiselles for Les Guérilleros. It hadn't rained for more than 36 hours but the rock was wet and, even worse, glue-y. Everything was covered with that same substance. After sending a somewhat easy and expo 6A, Le Casse-Gueule, I walked around in pursuit of unopened boulders. I had been eager to open for a few months but had never had the chance. After some wandering, I found five cool problems and got to work: Hic, Trickery, Grease, Slabby and Ray of light. The videos are available on my channel. You can find the info on my bleau.info profile and on the "Route setting" page of this blog. As it turned out, the first problem had been opened after all but it was worth the effort.

On Saturday and after having spent session after session on the same projects, we wanted to explore a new sector. The Petit Paradis subsector is too expo so we headed towards Oiseaux de Proie. A friend had told me about a feasible 8A (Bicarburation). The problems on that rock are simply beautiful: no crimps, just slopers and 2-finger holds.
First was Fatwoman light en traversée (7A). Nice line but largely overgraded. We downgraded to 6B+.

Then came Fatwoman (7A). Same line but with a different exit. It took us some time to find the beta but then sent it quickly.

À l'Endroit (7A+) was a pure joy. The problem seemed exceedingly easy but the first moves were hard. I had to go all Hulk to send that part. The second part is around 6A+. After figuring the first 10 moves out, I tried to send it and fell on the last move; the rock had not been brushed for some time. I thought I had missed my window of opportunity but ten minutes later and with a "what the hell" attitude, I gave it one last try. This time, I strolled on it, around it, in it, you name it.

Sunday was Marion des Roches again. I started with Les Guérilleros. The rock was, once again, very slippery but it was calling out my name. "Come and get me, a**hole, come and get me!" I gave it one try and was able to finish two thirds of the trav. On my second try, I went all the way up to the next-to-last move and fell while trying to hold onto a sloper. Had the rock not been wet, I would have sent it. I tried another four or five times but kept falling around the end. The good news: I am now very comfortable with every single move and can send the lower part in a matter of seconds. Next time this Siren is mine.
After a day's rest, I went alone to Aprémont Ouest to settle a score. I had tried Crazy Horse (7B) in April and had almost sent it so I was quite confident this time: I am 3 kilos lighter and twice as strong and experienced. I was in for a big surprise... I couldn't send a single move! After more than 15 tries, I sent the exit moves twice but it was ugly as hell.
Concept (7A) is a nice line. The crux is technical and I had to teach my body how to to do it. I was trying to get as close to the rock as possible but that's exactly the opposite of what you are supposed to do in this case. It took me around 45 mins.

L'Arête Dorsale (7A) is a nice trav. The first part is around 6A+ but the end is nasty. As soon as I sent the last moves, I tried to sent it but fell on the crux. I was getting a bit tired and wanted to find something shorter.
Attaque des Aplats (7A) is all about slopers. These slopers are very easy to hold and I thought I could flash it but the beta is really weird. I didn't know what to do with my feet. It took me less than an hour though.

It was getting rather late and I headed back to the parking lot. From there, it would be a 45-minute bike ride through the forest so I needed the day light. But as I was going down the hill, I passed by L'Arête Dorsale and saw three German guys working on Concept (same rock). We started talking about that problem and I got motivated and wanted to give the trav one last chance. I tried the end, I got it right on my second attempt so I thought I could send it. Sitstart, shoe wiping and there I went! Thanks to these guys' encouragement and cheering on, I sent it very (keep telling yourself that, douchebag...) easily.

And this is where my adventure began. While I was giving the German guys some advise on a few sectors, it got quite dark and a few minutes later, I had to use my flashlight. By the time I reached the parking lot, it had gotten pitch black. So there I was, in the middle of the forest, just me, my bike, a flashlight and my map. Given that I didn't know the route, I tried the most direct trajectory. I turned right and started pedaling. But after 50 meters, I saw that the ground was not suitable for biking (and I've got a mountain bike, mind you). I gave it another try and went on for another 300 m but it got even worse. Back to the lot and onto another path. Same thing. The third one was better but I knew it would get bumpy after 2-3 kms so I was very skeptical. By then I couldn't see sh*t and my T-shirt could no longer keep me warm. Had I brought a sweater, I would have spent the night. I kept pedaling but even my 200-lumen flashlight couldn't handle the utter blackness. Reading the signs was very hard so I relied on my instincts and my map-reading skills. After 20 mins of pedaling on tree roots, rocks, cracks and fallen branches, I found a nice, paved path. I was safe! From there, I got to the city in 20-25 minutes.
The next day we went back to Aprémont Ouest. After sending Le Petit Phoque (7A), we looked around for other projects but almost everything was expo.

After that, we got to the Aprémont sector to try Knees (7A). We started with the 7B variant, Knees rallongé. I got the first crux immediately but given the distance of the holds, I couldn't get the next three moves right. After some tweaking, I found the right beta and sent the problem on my first try.

After walking a bit to see another project nearby, I went back to send the 7A variant, Knees. Oh yes, I flashed it! As you can see in the videos, I was very comfortable in the tough parts of the problem so the flash was no surprise.

I wanted to try another project, a mantle, but some light rain started falling and we were done for the day. At least this time I knew how to get back to the train station and I even beat my personal best: 37 minutes!

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Episode 07: Bouldering is like gymnastics

Three days off due to constant rain and my slightly sliced index so our need to climb was boiling up.
The usual weather cast for Sunday: rain in the wee hours, light rain during the rest of the day, but we still crossed our fingers and made the trip to Marion des Roches. I started with Pierrot (7B). It took me about 30 minutes to finish all the moves except for the crux. After 15 tries of pulling more than two-thirds of my body weight with a heel hook, I gave it a rest.
La Fissure du Clodo (7A) and Mise en Boîte assis (7A+) were within our reach but the rock was a bit wet. La Fissure de Mise en Boîte assis (7A) was a piece of cake (near flash). The only reason to give it a 7A would be the rather expo ending: you need cojones to do that last hand/foot switch.

Bi-Steack (7A) ruined my palms and fingers. A sitstart with enormous inverse holds and you pull your way out of the roof. If your technique is as shitty as mine was during my first tries, you will pull like an ox without paying attention to your foot position and will peel off your hands. Then you get a shitty, sand-papery three-finger and a pitiful right-hand crimp and dyno to a huge hold (see the video below). I don't particularly appreciate this type of climbing but never shy away from it. I sent the second part on my first try (compression-style!) yet wasn't anywhere near pulling off the dyno. I was using my toe and heel hooks but nothing would work. Then I went full-on and did the move with a straight approach in only four tries. The hold may not seem that far in the video but believe me, it is. Anyway, after more than 20 attempts, my fingers were too stressed.

Speaking of not shying away from boulders I don't like, I have observed two distinct mentalities in climbing:
  1. "You need to work on your weaknesses"
  2. "You need to work on your strengths"
This dichotomy might remind some of you ("some" presupposes that more than one person reads this blog) of a similar paradigm: gymnastics. Some go for the all-around medal and some try to win specific events. I have chosen the first approach but sometimes, it's demoralising thinking I could have already sent an 8A (a trav or a slab) if I had chosen to focus on a single project and discipline. On the other hand, being able to send 7As and 7Bs in most or all styles (vertical, slab, underhang, trav, roofs, dynos, compression, crack) is very rewarding. Yet, that "what if..." thought keeps buzzing around in the back of my mind.
Other than that, the more I delve into bouldering, the more I realise even amateur (but serious) climbers behave a lot like professional athletes. Unlike other sports, it is difficult to work out regularly without getting bitten by the "Citius, Altius, Fortius" bug. This might be because of the grading system. I imagine that in tennis, for instance, you don't get the constant feeling of stagnation because you can't quantify your performances that easily. But in climbing, there's always a harder problem to climb.
We finished the day on Sans Pompe (7A+). We almost flashed it but fell two moves before the end. We gave it another four or five tries but the momentum was gone. We kept our Don Quijote attitude but nothing.
The weather cast for the next day was even worse. Rain in the morning and then again around 6 p.m. The main climbing season being almost over (constant rain will settle in about a month), we don't waste any sessions. So back to Marion des Roches for revenge. I couldn't find a better beta for the crux in Pierrot and the various cracks were very wet so we had to find something better. Bi-Steack wasn't a success but I was able to send Natacha (7A+), rather a 7A. As you can see, all it takes is a good toe hook. Unless you find that perfect toe hook, it becomes a 7B and demands a powerful shoulder locking.

I finished my day in Aurore (6C). This beautiful line is also the first part of Zénith (7C) that I find tempting.

Rain came back again so another 2-3 days of rest...

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Episode 06: I am back!

I am finally back to my old self!
We spent Saturday at Rocher des Demoiselles, a very beautiful sector and my first time there. We started with Le Repos du Sphinx (7A). I put in about 20 tries but it still didn't feel right. I simplified a bit more and then found a resting position. I enjoyed this rock mainly because of two consecutive shoulders locks. These last days my shoulder locking got much, much better. It has been my Achilles heel for some time now but I'm getting confident.

20 m meters away, an easier problem: Crampe Man (7A). The left handhold being out of my reach, I added a shoulder lock by using my thumb. Two attempts later, in the pocket!

Not having worked any difficult slabs for many months, I started salivating when I saw Chorizo (7A). It took me four tries. I admit my exit wasn't very clean...

L'Olive direct (7A+) was tough and none of us sent it. I reached for the last hold horizontally instead of diagonally with a shoulder lock and missed it. I achieved another two shoulder lock positions which motivated me even more for next time.
L'Espoir Naufragé (7A+) was rather easy. I didn't send it because of a heel hook whose position you have to learn by heart; I needed an extra 20 minutes.
Then it was Les Guérilleros (7B), a beautiful left-to-right traverse with serious locking. The first part contains huge holds but you have to go downwards by locking your right arm, using heel hooks and even an inverse toe hook. I finished all parts but needed another hour to send it.
After two days of rest due to rain, I went back to Demoiselles. I didn't have much time because of the weather forecast so I only tried L'Espoir Naufragé. I was completely wrong about the time needed. That blind heel hook... But the real surprise came after that crux: I was unable to bring the left hand without my back touching the rock behind. It happened three times. After a battle to the death, I got it right!

Under the threat of imminent rain, we went back on Wednesday. I wanted to send Les Guérilleros. Unfortunately, I fell in the last moves twice because of tiny mistakes. Then I tried a real slab, La Grosse Bertha (7A). That was the end for my index. Damn it! The good news: I sent two 6C's. Better than nothing!

Friday, September 6, 2013

Episode 05: Slowly back in shape

After 10 days of rest, I decided to head back to Font' on Sunday and give my right index a test drive. For some reason, the skin on my fingers was slippery and I couldn't hold anything. I sent a few easy problems and then tried a 7A+ and a 7A. I spent the rest of the session spotting a friend. My finger was not screaming at me.
Monday, back to Font' for the orange circuit at Mont Ussy. After 10 boulders, I felt my index complain and got worried. I kept climbing but mostly used the other nine fingers. I took photos of the entire circuit; they are now available on bleau.info (see here).
Tuesday: Roche aux Oiseaux. About 20 easy boulders from the red circuit, a six-meter 6A+ (I flashed it to test my nerves) and three or four technically tough boulders in the 6th degree. Summary of the day: I learnt yet another technique for a heelhook (how many are there?); I did a move that I needed to master in order to send Chasseur des Prises (raise a foot very high, sit on it and then switch feet while using very bad handholds) that has resisted me during 3 sessions; I sent a beautiful boulder (around 6A). I need to film the last one: my technique was probably flawless and it made me feel like a dancer.
Wednesday: Rocher de la Reine. After 17 km of biking, three consecutive days of climbing plus my injury, I didn't expect anything more than an easy circuit. That's because I had forgotten the importance of climbing in good company; this was the first time that our team would be getting back together after summer time. We started working on a tough 7A (Napoléon assis). Every single move was physical but I sent them all very quickly except for the crux. I missed this one (a right shoulder lock with a bad, bad handhold) by only 3 or 4 cms and then lost it for good. And then it was prow time: Compression Zip (7A)! Simple but beautiful. I realise that my top three boulders in Font' all "happen" to be prows. After 15-20 tries, I was able to come up with a great beta that allowed me to stroll on the rock. I'm never content unless everything is clean. I had found an ideal beta before that but lacked the 3 extra cms. Yes, I know it sounds like a pattern but it IS true: it is always those 2-3 cms - or lack thereof - that make me work harder. As you can see in the video, my back muscles are hardly tense; that's because I simplified my beta to the maximum.

Then, it was Le Couguar (7A+ but I give it a 7A). The first move is a tough right-shoulder lock, a move that I've never been able to pull off on other boulders. My team members - much taller than me - were able to grasp the left hold with their left arm extended to the max therefore I thought I couldn't do it. I tried to dyno, to go staticly, I was two centimeters away every time. Then, I understood the position I had to put my body into. Next try, I did the move but fell on the next one (a right heel hook). Heel hooks being my specialty, it really got to me that I would allow myself to make such a mistake. For the life of me, I don't understand why, while my technique is getting better and better, I keep making elementary mistakes. Funny enough, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet was writing something similar a few days ago:
In the end, I am fighting from the beginning to the end of the circuit and topped only two problems to finish around the 40th spot. My worst place so far, while I am stronger than I've ever been... Hard to believe!
Next try it went smoothly and I sent it quite easily.
On my way to the train station, my body was drained. I had to take two 2-minute breaks on the ride back. It took everything I had in me to get back home. I opened my door and didn't know what to do first: eat, shower, lie down, watch TV? I was starving, my body was aching and I had sand everywhere, even behind my ears. I ate a bowl of chick peas, 300 g of shredded carrots and two eggs. But my dinner lacked something... I headed to the fridge and while opening the door, I prayed to an nonspecific deity: "please let there be a melon in there!" And the deity answered favourably! I was in heaven!
Thursday was lead climbing again. My left shoulder, neck and calves were aching so I was pessimistic. But after a soft warm-up, I tried a 6c. "Sang pour sang" (eng. Blood for blood), 13 meters, 5 quickdraws. It was all monos, tiny pinches and crimps. I flashed it rather easily despite the painful holds. I am very proud of this one. Then a 5C and a 6B.
Tomorrow is my day off. No matter who calls me, I am saying no... I have to resist, damn it!

Friday, August 23, 2013

Episode 04: On why being cocky is a sin

After nine consecutive days of climbing and thanks to a pessimistic weather cast for Sunday, I decided to take 2 days off. I spent all Sunday going from my bed to the desk chair and then back again every few minutes. I think I got three siestas. I spent all day doing absolutely nothing.
Monday morning, my body was itching for some exercise so I took my bike to Bois de Boulogne - just a few minutes from my place - and did the Parcours sportif, a 3-km fun exercise circuit containing 25 exercises most of which include "instruments" made of wood. For the rest of the session I wandered about in the park, mostly around the lakes. As soon as I got home, I felt my right index complain again. It has been more than a month that it is bothering me, since the day I did half a pull-up using my right index and middle fingers on a slab at Cuvier.
Two days of rest and no healing. It still hurt so I decided to take two weeks off. I will spend this time swimming and biking to burn as many calories as possible. And I will keep working on my youtube project.
Tough luck but this is what happens when you make bad choices. I've always been careful with my fingers but my pride and ego got the best of me. After realising I can do pull-ups with two fingers on each hand, I have been cocky and this time, I paid for my sin.
The good news of the week: after pondering on different 8A problems and various factors (do I need more than one crash pad or/and a spotter? Is it expo? Is the Font' sector reachable by bike or on foot?), I think I have picked my first 8A project: Pied de Nez (Le Grand Nez en aller-retour). It is on the same boulder as Narine droite which I sent last week. It is a traverse, only one meter from the ground (which is covered with sand) therefore I can work on it as often as I need and want to. And I can go there by bike. And I can sleep under it!
Till next time (in a couple of weeks)...

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Episode 03: Things are picking up

This week has been quite hectic. Nine straight days of climbing have had a toll on my body. Plus, I've been on a diet for about four weeks so I can't perform at 100%. But the great news is that I'm down to 58 kilos (2.5 kgs already lost). I need to lose another 2 kgs and then I'm done.
Monday was lead climbing day at Viaduc des Fauvettes. Grading there is very unique and definitely tough. 5b, 5c+, 6b+, 6c and 6a+. The 6b+ was by far the toughest one, definitely in the 7th degree. 6c was a walk in the park. I was very pleased with the entire session. My visit to Millau in July has helped me a lot. I now am able to better concentrate and push through fatigue, stress and uncertainty.
After getting a small flapper on my left middle finger for the second time during La Mare (yes, THAT Mare) on Tuesday and unable/unwilling to climb hard problems after that, I took Wednesday off and did some light bouldering at Apremont Ouest (orange circuit). The day finished on some physical 6's.
On Thursday I visited La Canche aux Merciers by bike. 32 kilometres for the round trip. I had some unfinished projects from back in April. I was able to finish the hard part of Narine droite (7A) in only two attempts and was delightfully surprised. But then, I couldn't figure out the 5C-6A part in the beginning, which used to be a no-brainer. After about 10 attempts, I sent the boulder.

Poisson Pané was a tough one. It seems like a very simple rock because of the ridiculously easy first part but the second half is physical. The right heel hook necessary to reach the right handhold is very technical and takes a bite at your energy. Heel hooks being my specialty, I expected it to be a piece of cake. After working this move, I finished all the other moves and tried to send the problem. I kept falling on the same move: the body is hanging from the right hand (a crimpy sloper) and you need to lift your left foot above the waist by pulling your weight with the right hand.
I also repeated a previous 7A (Pattes de Coin). Last time I flashed it; this time it took me three tries.

I finished the day in Poulaga Run, a 7A traverse. The sitstart is very difficult and after many, many tries, I called it a day. I was able to "send" the rest of it very quickly.
As soon as we got back to Paris, we exited the train station and headed for the nearest kebab restaurant. I do not allow myself to eat kebabs more than once every 2-3 months but after such an exhausting day, it was exactly what we needed. Plus, I had lost a bet to my friend - he sent the Narine before me - so I had no choice (I love excuses that allow me to eat like a pig).
Friday: Viaduc and lead climbing. The day started great. Two 6a's with a minor underhang part. And then a 6c (En route pour le 7a, 31 m) in which I put everything. After sending it on the first try, I knew it was probably the hardest route I had ever done. But after a break, we decided to climb Père vert pépère (6b+, 31 m).under the sun. It was at least a 7a/7a+. Painful one- and two-finger holds all the way. On my first try, I finished the first half after pushing for 15 m and then asked for a break. I then sent the rest. Motivated by my need to tame this monster, I gave it another try. Unfortunately, my right foot slipped around the third quickdraw and I took a minor plunge. I got immediately back on my feet and sent the rest. Next time she's mine... To this day, I have sent 61 out of the 110 routes at the Viaduc.
Saturday: after all these days of climbing, dieting and cycling, my body was tired but I needed the exercise. I tried Poisson Pané again but same thing. So I decided to do the blue circuit. 44 boulders of pull-ups and dynos. I tried to keep my heart rate up by not taking a break between problems.
Finally, they are announcing rain for today (Sunday); this will make me take some time off. I have to get some work done for my project.
Other than that, here are some items I decided to buy this month. I only mention them because I consider them a great deal. I have already received and tested all but the first one and they were definitely worth the money spent:

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Episode 02: Mediocrity, Thy will be done

In my last post and while talking about La Mare, I wrote "Now I know I am gonna send it next time." How dumb and conceited was I... That bitch just won't budge! I spent another two sessions since those famous words and still nothing. I'm starting to flip out. I came home a few hours ago all frustrated, flustered and, of course, disgusted. I even promised to not touch that rock for another 3 weeks because it just upsets me to think I have already spent 9 sessions on it. But as you might have guessed already, the moment I made that promise, I knew I wasn't going to keep it.
A few days ago, I decided to redo the sky blue circuit at Canon and film everything. I am going to do the montage in a few days and upload it. I wasn't able to send 3 problems: one was rather suicidal, the second one quite dangerous and the last one plain difficult (5A a la Font'). I sent the latter last year while a beginner at Font' but this time, I wasn't up to the task.
Sunday, I took my bike to Isatis. I joined a friend, having one project in mind: Le Lot des Boudins, 7C traverse. I almost sent it a few months ago during my second session but fell on the last move (a 4A-move tops). I was rather optimistic this time but to no avail. I was able to do all the moves except for the last crux. The crimp is painful so you need to send the problem very fast. After 3-4 tries, you're done.
While being there, I tried two easy 7a's I had sent a few months ago, Quartier Latin and Plastikman. Both took me only one try. Here's the video for the former.
Starting tomorrow, I'm roaming Font' to finish every single boulder I haven't been able to send this year. If you don't hear from me by the end of the week, I might have admitted myself into a looney bin.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Episode 01: A week at Rocher Canon

I suppose a rainy day is the most appropriate day for me to write my first post so here's the recap of this past week...
After having spent 4-5 sessions on my projects at Rocher Canon, boulders started yielding. I have recently started filming my bouldering. Given my height (1,65 m) and my creativity (call me Mr HeelHook!), I know I can contribute new betas to bleau.info. Most videos there come from very strong climbers who use 7B+/7C betas to climb 7A or even 6A boulders. Plus, it helps me understand what goes wrong. Climbers and dancers are much alike on many levels (one of them being the extent to which we torture our feet). And of course, I want to be able to hear this phrase one day: "wow, grandpa, you were like a super hero!"
Wednesday: I had been told Bonsaï (7A) was a hard and weird problem. I only found 5 public registrations on bleau.info, no photos or videos. I was too eager to try so no warm up. It took me an hour and a half of puzzle-solving to understand and master all the moves. The camera started rolling and I was ready to send it. Ready, my ass! It took me an additional hour to send and the battery went out a few minutes before that. Arggh! After realising I was forgetting to turn my hips by 4-5 centimetres to the left, I sent it effortlessly. This boulder has taught me 3 new handholds.
I had been wanting to try Le Cervin (5B, 40 blue) for some time but hadn't had the guts (6 meters). This time, I just went for it.

Tuesday: After two one-hour sessions and a near send a few days earlier, I was ready to send a classic 7A, Compressman. Definitely one of my favorite boulders. I gave it a try and I was able to go all the way up to the next-to-last move! I was quite surprised and gave it another shot. Same thing. My hips were too low so I didn't have the arm span to reach the hold. I locked my left arm at a lower angle and, this time, it worked like a charm. To fully appreciate the video, turn the volume up. This will make the sound of my slapping the rock even funnier.

The day finished with La Mare droite (7B). This is my 5th or 6th session on this boulder. If you don't know it by now, I am a patient man who doesn't like failure or quitting. I had done all but two moves in two sessions and since then, I had been working on the first move: you have to lock your left arm and jump to the right. Dynamic moves are my worst nightmare: I have almost no precision. I have now tried this move at least 60 times in 5 sessions, maybe even 80 times (I lost counting, to be honest; after 50 tries, it all becomes a blur). I gave it a first try and it worked! I fell on the second (and last) crux which necessitates another arm lock (my second weakest point). Five tries in total and the first move worked every time. I was optimistic.
I decided to work the second crux and my arm lock. On my second try, I was able to reach for the left hand in a static manner. You have to insert your fingers into the hold so a dyno is not a smart choice. I tried once more to be sure and again, I succeeded. Now I know I am gonna send it next time.
I'm off to Decathlon to buy a lantern (spot light). These next days, I want to finish some ongoing projects that include hard slopers so climbing during the day is not an option: