It has been six months since my last post but I finally decided to finalise this one. This delay was largely due to the fact that I had to switch software for the video editing. I could no longer do it manually with a classical piece of software (I had been using VideoPad Video Editor). I need speed and efficiency in my life so I decided to learn how to use Avisynth. You write a simple script in a simple programming language which you encode/decode/compress with Avidemux, Virtualdub or another tool. I highly recommend this way of editing; it is ten times faster. And even though manual editing is fairly straightforward for a one-minute video, I am going to start on longer projects in the following months so Avisynth was more than necessary.
Although I rarely keep the promises I make to myself, I did keep Font'ing (trademark pending) during the entire winter. I do not think I took a break from Font' for more than three weeks. And even though I did not send a single 7A for three months, at least I visited easy circuits to maintain my feeling of the rock.
Although I rarely keep the promises I make to myself, I did keep Font'ing (trademark pending) during the entire winter. I do not think I took a break from Font' for more than three weeks. And even though I did not send a single 7A for three months, at least I visited easy circuits to maintain my feeling of the rock.
First things first: in my last post, I talked about my send of Plein Ciel assis (7A). Here's the video.
And here's Scout Toujours (7A).
And of course, my send of Zermatt Express (6C/7A) shot and edited by Marin Menant (thanks again, mate!).
For my last 2014 session, I visited Rocher de Bouligny to check out two classics: Gecko and Les Beaux Quartiers. The sector is very calm but some problems are lichenous; plus, no circuits are available so finding certain boulders was tricky. And given the tree density and the recent rain, half of the problems were wet. The best omens for a great day...
After observing the two aforementioned problems, I did not feel inspired and I moved on. Being alone and with a single pad, I refrained from certain expo boulders so I wasn't left with a lot of choices.
Hypotension assis (6C/+) is a nice overhang with good holds and a somewhat scary exit if you are alone but I enjoyed the moves.
Damoclès (7A) is a cool ltr (left-to-right) endurance traverse. All moves looked easy but linking was not. I spent an hour working on each move, trying to find the smoothest beta possible but did not send it.
After walking around the entire sector and observing every single ≥7A problem, I arrived at Des Boules au Nez (7A). That was one problem I very much enjoyed. A nice sitstart, a wide, undercling-y pinch that twists your left wrist by an extra 30 degrees... what's not to like? It took me an hour to get all the moves properly/statically and then, for the first time ever, I decided to take a break before linking; my wrist was on fire. After walking around for 20 minutes, I went back and linked it twice in a row (to film from two angles).
05/03: After a few winter sessions during which I could not send anything harder than 6A, I visited Vallon de la Solitude with a friend. The sector did not inspire me much. We only found 3-4 worthy projects.
Deltaroc (7A) is a definite must. It might seem easy but falling from it can be messy. A large rock to the right, a tree to the left and a slop-y ground with big roots in the middle. My friend fell twice in different positions and the second time, he got a hematoma by landing with his right hand on a root. It took me about 8 tries even though I could have flashed it indoors. I was being cautious so whenever I did not feel comfortable with a move, I would release. Plus, I could not find a good beta.
07/03: Four friends and visited Apremont Fond des Gorges, my first time there.
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Warm up with Électrochoc (7A). It took me about five tries because I was trying to send it properly and get my heel hook very high instead of keep moving without footholds. I appreciated the top out, though.
After that, Strate Eau Sphère (7B+/7C), a ltr traverse/roof. I saw two friends having slight problems with the crux (right heel hook, a crimp for the left arm and then you reach for a right-hand jug; all of my strong points). I sent the move on my first try. After giving the final mantle two tries, I linked on my second try. A very nice feeling overall. Definitely not a 7C, rather a hard 7B or a very soft 7B+.
The rest of the day, I kept battling against two 7As, Chicken Skin assis and Chicken Noris assis. Same sitstart but for Chicken Skin assis, you exit in the prow whereas for Chicken Noris assis, you traverse to the right. For Chicken Skin assis, the crux is very simple if you are tall enough. I was able to reach the hold with my left hand but being entirely stretched, I could not move. I tried and tried but nothing. My friend held my back so I could test my reach but, again, nothing.
08/03: We started with Le Piano à Queue assis (7A+) at Apremont Vallon de Sully. This is a classic but the description is unclear. It is indicated that the left crack is forbidden but we found it far too easy for a 7A+. A friend told me that for the 7A+ version, you do the mantle by doing a muscle up (using your triceps and without feet). Next time I am there, I will try it that beta. I will not upload the video for the time being. I think what we sent is a 6C.
I then went back to Chicken Skin assis and Chicken Noris assis. After trying the same beta again and again, I decided to take a risk and try a very, very high left heel hook. I sent the move on the first try statically.
Before retrying Chicken Noris assis, I went back to Électrochoc to explore Électrochoc par le bas (7C+), a lower variant. I tried the three hard moves and linked them in only five minutes. Instead of getting out of a roof, you go inside by first sending your left heel hook really deep and then matching with your left hand. Very physical but within my kingdom. But, the fool that I am, instead of trying to link the whole thing, I went back to Chicken Noris assis. I was obsessed. It took me about 30 minutes. I enjoyed both "Chickens" a lot.
We finished the day with Mandela (7A) and Mandela assis (7A+). We sent both versions very easily but there was something bugging me the whole time. For my first attempts, I tried a different beta and almost got the standing start by using a small diagonal undercling. My friends insisted on an easier beta (right heel hook) so I followed their advice. When I returned home that night, I checked on bleau.info and I was right on my beta. The sitstart, on the other hand, was largely "undergraded". I found the move to be very hard, probably because of my height. I was able to reach for the crimp but then I could not move. I think I can do it, I will go back next week.
After checking on bleau.info, I saw that our versions (~6C and ~7A+) had not been entered into the database. I consider our versions to be well distinguished from the neighbouring problems, especially the sitstart. I will send the info and see what happens.
12/03: I tried to warm up in Électrochoc par le bas but was feeling very heavy and lacked the motivation so I left for Cuvier Rempart. After exploring the entire sector (dozens upon dozens of difficult problems), I was in the mood for slabs.
I started with Avec l'Arête (5C). Nice little problem. I then worked on its arete-less variant, Sans l'Arête. It took me about an hour because I could not reach the hold with the most obvious beta so I found a new beta (right hand/foot matching). I fell once on the last move because I could not find a single hold to stop the barn door and lacked the reach to get the final hold directly. On the next attempt, I found a tiny (and I mean tiny) bump for the right hand and sent it.
I finished the day in La Dalle directe. The tip of my fingers was pinkish but I kept trying. For the hard move, you dyno to a small, flat, slippery crimp while trying to control the barn door. You need that door to hold the diagonal crimp. If you dyno straight ahead, you slip. After twenty or thirty tries, I gave up. Losing counting of the attempts, that's when I know I've been trying a lot...
14/03: Back to Cuvier Rempart with friends. I started my warm up alone in the black circuit, a definite must given its difficulty and exposure. Almost all problems are high and guarantee a nasty fall. It has been opened in the 50s, I think, by alpinists who knew no fear. I tried eight or nine problems and got freaked out. After sending a few and failing miserably at the others, I moved to black no9, a nice slab which I had refused to try a few months earlier. I moved up the rock confidently but when I reached for a small crack, I touched some mud and moss. I tried to clean it only to discover I was getting the footholds dirtier. And as you can imagine, I started slipping on the newly dirty holds and after a few seconds, I fell. Even though it is not obvious in the following video, my butt landed only a few centimeters from the rock.
Laser (6C+/7A) is the kind of slabs I like. The crimps are decent and painless and the secret is in the body position. We all sent it instantly.
Manolo (7C) is an elegant roof/mantle problem. Its difficulty lies in heel hooks and slopers. I gave it a few tries but the sloper was too hot so I moved to my project for the day: Verdict (8A). My friend kept pushing me "this is the perfect problem for you, go check it out". It lies less that 30m from Manolo so I went to check it out. Sloppy crimps that don't hurt (except for the last one) and very, very powerful arm locking. I started salivating and got anxious. Unfortunately, as soon as I touched the rock, it started sweating. Given the high temperatures of that day and notwithstanding the fact that my fingers are naturally quite dry, I could only try each hold only twice. Each time, I was not very far from succeeding and I was not even pushing my body so I will have to wait for the right weather conditions for this one. I really loved it. For the last move, however, the top out of the 6C standing version, you need to hold a horrific vertical crimp that can send you screaming. I will have to deactivate my pain receptors next time.
Point d'Interrogation (7A+) is a strange problem. At first sight, it seems like a piece of cake. After your first fall, you start cratching your head.. "how the hell am I supposed to reach for that crimp?" We tried one beta after another... In Cuvier Rempart, the non-major boulders are lichenous and Point is certainly not a classic. Lichen made the miniscule crimps even less usable. After many tries, I found a beta that worked. As you can see, I sent the crux in a slightly dynamic manner; I could not do it statically. I have mixed feelings about this problem.
21/03: Isatis. My projects there keep piling up as usual. I sent the last blue ones I needed for my big comp video (I am still missing one blue, I think) before my friends started arriving.
First project: Beurre Marga (6B+). This one is a classic and I wanted it under my belt. The holds were very slippery but after many tries (20+?), I sent the crux, I reached for the final jug, I got it with my right hand and... I fell. Lack of concentration or over-confidence, I imagine.
I stumbled upon a friend who was trying L'Envie des Bêtes assis (7A), one of my must-do projects. After a few tries, I got all the moves. I tried to send it but my heel hook kept slipping off of a good flake. It pissed me off. A gave it another two good tries but I was too angry with myself to concentrate.
I had been avoiding L'Angle Ben's for two years, mostly because I knew the crux was reachy. This time I tried it but unfortunately, as soon as I reached for the good hold on the arete, my left foot would slip because my body was stretched to its limits. I think there is a possibility but I am not strong enough to try the alternative.
La Memel (7A+/B) is another classic. I never had the chance to try it. All four of us sent it within four or five tries. Apparently, there is a doubt on whether the sloper/crimp on the right (before you reach for the left-hand undercling) is an eliminant.Here's my linking:
and here's a mini-montage of all four of us:
Footrix le Retour (7A) is a pleasant little prow. The obvious beta was too reachy so after a few tries, I found a better one that fitted me. I got the crux and almost linked it. The sitstart (7B+) is certainly feasible.
06/04: Apremont Envers. What a disappointing and joyous day at the same time! I was going to start with the red circuit but stumbled upon a guy working on Tijuana so I joined him. I kept falling on every single move. I was disgusted. Finally, my climbing buddy arrived and we moved to the red circuit. I spent half the day doing easy stuff, helping friends with their projects and not pushing myself. After all that, I took the guys to my project: Religion verticale direct assis. After 10 months, four one-hour sessions and a lot of humidity, I thought this was going to be the day. The key holds were dry! I first tried the standing start (7A) to be sure I was in shape. Sent it on my first try!
Let me remind you the whole sitstart debacle. According to 7+8 and bleau.info, the real sistart is two meters to the right of the main crack. When I visited this problem back in May, I had the idea of doing a direct sitstart. The description of the existing sitstart seemed incomprehensible. Anyways, after a few tries, I felt I was not very far but I was getting moody/frustrated because of the second move. In the meanwhile, my buddies tried the 7A and wanted to try something else. I took them to Poséidon (7A) and explained the two possible betas. But Religion Verticale was eating me up, I knew I had it... so I went back. After 3 or 4 tries, I finally linked it!
Note: Later that day, I sent an email to a bleau.info administrator about my first ascent. He went to check it out the next day and wrote back that the previous sitstart must be the same as mine. Although I am almost sure this is not the case (I asked on the forum last year), I did not insist. Maybe someone will watch my video (I will be editing in a few days) and give us some additional info about the first ascent.
I then went back to Poséidon and sent the sitstart on my second try.
Sunday 12/04: Apremont Envers again. We started with some red ones to warm up. Plus, this is one circuit that I really want to film. After 3 or 4, I tried the 44bis. What a trainwreck... When climbing this type of circuits, I am always under the impression that back in the days, climbing in Font was somewhat of a pissing contest. When you see the dangers of a potential fall, you cannot but think that. 44bis has a scary top out. My second try was the worse. I fell on the very last move (the boulder was lichenous so I could not hold on anything). My spotters saved my butt. As a friend noticed, the last thing you hear me say in the video is "Belle adrenaline" (nice adrenaline rush).
First project of the day: Masta boulda. The virgin rock felt perfect, you can feel the stickiness of the grain. We were not aware of the conventions so we didn't know which were the starting holds. We decided on a version and sent it. I then tried a lower sitstart, with two hands on an undercling. At least a 7B. I did the first move but couldn't sent the next one. And that first move being very painful, I only tried it three or four times.
Paul's boutique is a weird problem. bleau.info proposes a very strange convention:
Standing start with both hands in a little oblique crack and exit directly by conventionand the 7+8 topoguide says:
start with two hands on undercling
The first description being irrational, I tried the second one (the only one that looked like a 7A+). I sent it very quickly. I then tried the sitstart version (7C). I almost got it. I think I need another session on that. Since the rest of the moves are easy for me, it will fall soon. Plus, it's not exposed to the sun.
At the end of the day, I went back to Tijuana to try the move that was missing. The second try was perfect. Dumb as I am, I didn't think about sending the whole project on the spot and said to myself "I'll come back tomorrow, all fresh and motivated". This dummy never learns...
Monday 13/04: The forecast being very positive, I decided to go back to Tijuana. After a few red ones and stumbling upon Sean McColl and Jeremy Bonder working on L'Apparemment, I was ready. The rock, however, was not. Two straight days of heat made the boulder sweat like crazy. I got all the moves right but was pushing too much; I knew the linking would be a struggle. After an hour, I decided to switched to some boulders with a northern exposure. I knew exactly where I had to go.
I had tried Festin de Pierre (7A) two years ago but needed an extra centimeter or two to reach for the key hold (right heel hook then cross with right hand on a good crimp). I had gone back to that boulder a few times but the crimp was always humid. First try, I got my right heel hook perfectly, got my left foot higher and went for the crimp. Everything was fluid, I got my left foot to the left to control the barn door and, being distracted or rather too arrogant, I fell. I finally got it on my fourth try. I tried the sitstart (7B+) but the moves are very reachy; I tried to come up with a beta but did not insist. I think it can be done.
La Nuit de l'Éclipse (7A+) starts two meters to the left of Festin. People had told me about the nastiness of the holds. Nasty, sharp crimps indeed... I tried a low start but after a few tries and a lot of pain, I started with my left hand directly with a crimp. I sent it on my second try. Painful but beautiful.
A fellow Bleausard, Marc, had suggested the 25 black (La Psyssure, 6B). It seems very easy but the top out is messy. You see chalk everywhere so you're expecting jugs but I don't think there are any. By then, my nails on my middle fingers were moving too much (I knew that was bound to happen). After falling twice on the third move, I found a hold for the left hand and changed my beta. I reached the top out and kept looking for good holds. Damn it! I knew a very nasty fall was to come about but kept calm. Fabien (the guy I met there) saw me struggling and came running to spot me (that's what real Bleausards do :-)). As you can see in the video, I don't look pretty sending this. My nails were already in bad shape and then I had to push and pull for the top out. As soon as I climbed down, I noticed that my nails were bleeding. It was the end of the day and two days of rest from climbing :-(
After many falls on Welcome to Tijuana and numerous three-or-four-hour round trips to Font', I reached a point of mental fatigue. I just could not imagine myself going back there; I needed a break. So I did Mudday Paris (a great experience), a lot of indoors sports climbing (I sent every single project I tried) and bouldering (same thing, I feel like everything is possible; I have gained a lot of strength these past few months). No Font for a month. What I really needed was to change my attitude towards climbing. Even though I had the confidence and strength that I lacked last year, I kept stressing out about sending problems. I was too impatient. So I calmed down and let it go. I know I can send all the projects I have tried, no need to worry, the right time will come.In a few days, I will be publishing a new post covering my sends from April to June. I will also be presenting the first compilation of an entire circuit (blue of Isatis). I have yet to choose among the following options:
- one video per circuit in normal speed (around one hour in total?)
- one video per circuit in higher speed (30 minutes?)
- one video per problem (too many files?)
- one video per 10 problems
