Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Episode 02: Mediocrity, Thy will be done

In my last post and while talking about La Mare, I wrote "Now I know I am gonna send it next time." How dumb and conceited was I... That bitch just won't budge! I spent another two sessions since those famous words and still nothing. I'm starting to flip out. I came home a few hours ago all frustrated, flustered and, of course, disgusted. I even promised to not touch that rock for another 3 weeks because it just upsets me to think I have already spent 9 sessions on it. But as you might have guessed already, the moment I made that promise, I knew I wasn't going to keep it.
A few days ago, I decided to redo the sky blue circuit at Canon and film everything. I am going to do the montage in a few days and upload it. I wasn't able to send 3 problems: one was rather suicidal, the second one quite dangerous and the last one plain difficult (5A a la Font'). I sent the latter last year while a beginner at Font' but this time, I wasn't up to the task.
Sunday, I took my bike to Isatis. I joined a friend, having one project in mind: Le Lot des Boudins, 7C traverse. I almost sent it a few months ago during my second session but fell on the last move (a 4A-move tops). I was rather optimistic this time but to no avail. I was able to do all the moves except for the last crux. The crimp is painful so you need to send the problem very fast. After 3-4 tries, you're done.
While being there, I tried two easy 7a's I had sent a few months ago, Quartier Latin and Plastikman. Both took me only one try. Here's the video for the former.
Starting tomorrow, I'm roaming Font' to finish every single boulder I haven't been able to send this year. If you don't hear from me by the end of the week, I might have admitted myself into a looney bin.

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