Episode 10: Nothing special

Sunday, October 6: Roche d'Hercule. The roof was wet again so I decided to explore the adjacent boulders. Just 100 meters away, I found a great wall for my warm-up and immediately got the idea to open a 25-meter traverse!

According to the topo and curiously enough, there was nothing opened. I started working the left-to-right trajectory after realising the other way around wasn't as appealing. Before trying out the holds, I saw two problems: one that traverses low and another one using the top holds; around 7A and 6A respectively. I was in for a big surprise. After 2 hours of hard work, I was able to send all the moves of the low-pass trav but she was exhausting as hell. The best/worst element: there is a 7A crux at 18-19 meters from the beginning hold! It took me 10/15 tries to figure out that sequence and I only got it right once. Same thing with the first crux: a sequence of 4 moves in the 6C/7A, five meters from the beginning. I then tried to at least send the easy trav but she was too long. I only got 15 meters. I need another session with her.

While working on the travs, I tried out Fenbren le Fou (7B) with my buddies. I put 3 attempts using a friend's beta although I knew it wouldn't work but he was insisting. After that, I tried out a "harder" beta and sent it in only three tries. Probably a 7A/7A+. But after having a debate with a friend, I am having some doubts about our betas. We used a hold that the setter doesn't use.

Monday: climbing alone. I first went to Rocher Canon. And no, I did NOT touch La Mare. I've been patiently waiting for 5 months for the perfect weather conditions and though I knew it wasn't the day, I needed to try Babaobab (7B) again. I warmed up a bit and then summoned up all my courage for the sitstart. I consider the first move to be a solid 7A+/7B and wasn't sure I was going to get it. I was able to send that move in 10-15 tries in May but since then, nothing! Since May, I lost weight, worked my biceps and got much stronger in shoulder/arm locking, all being key ingredients for this move. First try, I dynoed too hard and went beyond the hold! Second try, I touched the sloper/pinch but couldn't hold it. Third try: she's mine but still a bit too shaky. I then found a lower hold for my right foot and sent it like it was nothing. The rest of the problem is based on your ability to hold on slopers and the weather was still too hot. I need to wait for another 2-3 weeks. I couldn't even do a pull-up on the slopers which is always my way of knowing.

I got back on my bike; destination: Bas Cuvier. I wanted to revisit two boulders: Super Bouze (7A+) and Banlieue Nord direct (7A). I tried them both in June but wasn't able to go past the first move (actually, I couldn't even do the start of the Bouze). After 90 minutes on the latter, I got 1.5 moves this time! I still don't know yet whether my beta is correct and I can't find any videos online. I almost sent Banlieue Nord direct but kept (six times) falling on the last move.

Tuesday: the great deception! I wrote down 15*7A/B projects in Cuvier and went back. I tried to send Banlieue but the first hold was very slippery. I put another four tries but I knew it wasn't going to cut it. I spend 1.5 hours looking for the other projects. I only found 3 or 4 and they were either too ugly or too difficult. I ended up doing a circuit but Cuvier, as everyone knows, is over-visited so footholds have been polished for many years.

Wednesday: the team was back together. Two new sectors: Avon and Avon Ouest. We started Master of Puppets (7B). Such a beautiful line. I almost sent it and then, after a short break, I couldn't get past the first move any more. This is why I hate taking breaks. My body forgets too easily.

The first part of Retour de Bas-Ton (7A) was rather simple but the end was quite physical. Nice line as well.

La Voûte Étoilée (7A) was quite easy as well. I almost flashed it but it finally took me around five tries.

On Saturday, we went to Rocher Brûlé. Everything was wet so we found a tunnel to work on. Éclair à la Vanille (7B) and Éclair au Chocolat (7B) are practically the same problem; only difference is the exit, hardly a 5B in either case. After a few tries, we almost had gotten the moves right but then, my friend ripped off the key hold - a huge jug. I think the problems are still doable but rather in the 7B+/7C (not sure about this). This is what happens when you are not light as a feather.

We immediately left for Buthiers Piscine where my friend wanted to revisit Magic Bus (7B+). This roof has no breakable holds so we weren't hesitant about trying it out. We got all the moves right (it took me more about an hour and a half) but sending it was not in the cards. The tricky part is the dyno out of the roof. I got the move only once so I kept working on it before attempting to send it. No luck... I tried another beta but it was as difficult.

After a few days of rain, I went back to Canche aux Merciers to send some old projects dating back to April. The conditions were not good enough: slippery fingers and slimy holds. It's been months that I have no fingerprints so I can't hold a sloper to save my life. My sense of touch is 95% gone and I don't even know when my finger tips are wet (I use my wrist to test the humidity of the rocks). At that moment, I decided to do some hiking.

Le circuit des 25 bosses is a well-known, 20-km hiking circuit that traverses the Trois Pignons Forest. I started at 12:15 and tried it counter-clockwise. After getting lost in the first part, I went back to the starting point and went the other way. I started up at 2:00 and was able to finish it in 4 hours! It was quite difficult. half way, The pain started settling in but I wouldn't go back, I had to do it. When I got back to the starting point, my body was aching very hard, I couldn't bend my legs and I kept wondering how I was supposed to get on my bike and pedal for another 15 km back to the train station. Miraculously, as soon as I started biking, nothing else mattered! It only took me 55 minutes to the station, which is the fastest I had been. Miracles can happen after all. Well, it depends on your definition of a miracle because at this moment, two days later, I still can't stand on my left foot.

One good thing came out of this hiking journey, however: I am now at 56.5 kilos!