Episode 06: I am back!

I am finally back to my old self!

We spent Saturday at Rocher des Demoiselles, a very beautiful sector and my first time there. We started with Le Repos du Sphinx (7A). I put in about 20 tries but it still didn't feel right. I simplified a bit more and then found a resting position. I enjoyed this rock mainly because of two consecutive shoulders locks. These last days my shoulder locking got much, much better. It has been my Achilles heel for some time now but I'm getting confident.

20 m meters away, an easier problem: Crampe Man (7A). The left handhold being out of my reach, I added a shoulder lock by using my thumb. Two attempts later, in the pocket!

Not having worked any difficult slabs for many months, I started salivating when I saw Chorizo (7A). It took me four tries. I admit my exit wasn't very clean...

L'Olive direct (7A+) was tough and none of us sent it. I reached for the last hold horizontally instead of diagonally with a shoulder lock and missed it. I achieved another two shoulder lock positions which motivated me even more for next time.

L'Espoir Naufragé (7A+) was rather easy. I didn't send it because of a heel hook whose position you have to learn by heart; I needed an extra 20 minutes.

Then it was Les Guérilleros (7B), a beautiful left-to-right traverse with serious locking. The first part contains huge holds but you have to go downwards by locking your right arm, using heel hooks and even an inverse toe hook. I finished all parts but needed another hour to send it.
After two days of rest due to rain, I went back to Demoiselles. I didn't have much time because of the weather forecast so I only tried L'Espoir Naufragé. I was completely wrong about the time needed. That blind heel hook... But the real surprise came after that crux: I was unable to bring the left hand without my back touching the rock behind. It happened three times. After a battle to the death, I got it right!

Under the threat of imminent rain, we went back on Wednesday. I wanted to send Les Guérilleros. Unfortunately, I fell in the last moves twice because of tiny mistakes. Then I tried a real slab, La Grosse Bertha (7A). That was the end for my index. Damn it! The good news: I sent two 6C's. Better than nothing!