This week has been quite hectic. Nine straight days of climbing have had a toll on my body. Plus, I've been on a diet for about four weeks so I can't perform at 100%. But the great news is that I'm down to 58 kilos (2.5 kgs already lost). I need to lose another 2 kgs and then I'm done.
Monday was lead climbing day at Viaduc des Fauvettes. Grading there is very unique and definitely tough. 5b, 5c+, 6b+, 6c and 6a+. The 6b+ was by far the toughest one, definitely in the 7th degree. 6c was a walk in the park. I was very pleased with the entire session. My visit to Millau in July has helped me a lot. I now am able to better concentrate and push through fatigue, stress and uncertainty.
After getting a small flapper on my left middle finger for the second time during La Mare (yes, THAT Mare) on Tuesday and unable/unwilling to climb hard problems after that, I took Wednesday off and did some light bouldering at Apremont Ouest (orange circuit). The day finished on some physical 6's.
On Thursday I visited La Canche aux Merciers by bike. 32 kilometres for the round trip. I had some unfinished projects from back in April. I was able to finish the hard part of Narine droite (7A) in only two attempts and was delightfully surprised. But then, I couldn't figure out the 5C-6A part in the beginning, which used to be a no-brainer. After about 10 attempts, I sent the boulder.
Poisson Pané was a tough one. It seems like a very simple rock because of the ridiculously easy first part but the second half is physical. The right heel hook necessary to reach the right handhold is very technical and takes a bite at your energy. Heel hooks being my specialty, I expected it to be a piece of cake. After working this move, I finished all the other moves and tried to send the problem. I kept falling on the same move: the body is hanging from the right hand (a crimpy sloper) and you need to lift your left foot above the waist by pulling your weight with the right hand.
I also repeated a previous 7A (Pattes de Coin). Last time I flashed it; this time it took me three tries.
I finished the day in Poulaga Run, a 7A traverse. The sitstart is very difficult and after many, many tries, I called it a day. I was able to "send" the rest of it very quickly.
As soon as we got back to Paris, we exited the train station and headed for the nearest kebab restaurant. I do not allow myself to eat kebabs more than once every 2-3 months but after such an exhausting day, it was exactly what we needed. Plus, I had lost a bet to my friend - he sent the Narine before me - so I had no choice (I love excuses that allow me to eat like a pig).
Friday: Viaduc and lead climbing. The day started great. Two 6a's with a minor underhang part. And then a 6c (En route pour le 7a, 31 m) in which I put everything. After sending it on the first try, I knew it was probably the hardest route I had ever done. But after a break, we decided to climb Père vert pépère (6b+, 31 m).under the sun. It was at least a 7a/7a+. Painful one- and two-finger holds all the way. On my first try, I finished the first half after pushing for 15 m and then asked for a break. I then sent the rest. Motivated by my need to tame this monster, I gave it another try. Unfortunately, my right foot slipped around the third quickdraw and I took a minor plunge. I got immediately back on my feet and sent the rest. Next time she's mine... To this day, I have sent 61 out of the 110 routes at the Viaduc.
Saturday: after all these days of climbing, dieting and cycling, my body was tired but I needed the exercise. I tried Poisson Pané again but same thing. So I decided to do the blue circuit. 44 boulders of pull-ups and dynos. I tried to keep my heart rate up by not taking a break between problems.
Finally, they are announcing rain for today (Sunday); this will make me take some time off. I have to get some work done for my project.
Other than that, here are some items I decided to buy this month. I only mention them because I consider them a great deal. I have already received and tested all but the first one and they were definitely worth the money spent:
Finally, they are announcing rain for today (Sunday); this will make me take some time off. I have to get some work done for my project.
Other than that, here are some items I decided to buy this month. I only mention them because I consider them a great deal. I have already received and tested all but the first one and they were definitely worth the money spent:
- A 200-lumen flashlight for general lighting during night sessions
- Four Klic 7004 batteries for my Kodak Zi8 (you never know when you're gonna finally send a problem unless you're climbing below your maximum level)
- A horsehair brush
- A medium Octopus Flexible Tripod for my Kodak
- Six Boar's Hair Brushes
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