Episode 17: Getting my confidence back

This past month I have been picking up the pace and trying to climb harder problems. But the rain has been a real pain.

Sunday 19th: Isatis. I have been wanting to try La Fissure Évasée (7A) again. Just like L'Olive direct, it's all about shoulder locking so it was a piece of cake! Last year, I also threw my back on those shoulder moves. Note: in the video, you can see I am using 3 pads to reach the first holds. I tried the problem a few days later with a single pad and it didn't make a difference.

I spent the rest of the day on Boudin Noir (7B+), a newly established version of Le Lot de Boudins (7C). It consists in doing all the hard moves of the 7C version but exiting earlier with a shoulder lock. That last move took me more than an hour. Here's a successful attempt of the crux. I tried to link but I was a bit tired and my fingers were too damaged.

My friends were working on Plastikman (7A) so I sent it again to get it on film.

On the 25th, the weather forecast was bad but we still gave it a try. First stop: Isatis. The boulders were soaking wet so we headed to Dame Jouanne for Le Plafond (7B+). At least that roof would be dry. After 1-2 hours, we were unable to link. My problem was with the first move: a left heel hook. My climbing shoes (Madrock Drifter) are not rigid enough and the heel tends to bend when pressure is applied. I had all the moves but nothing... We got very pissed so off we went on a boulder hunt.
Luckily, the sky changed its mood and we got sunshine for at least four hours. After checking out the entire sector and trying out various things, we found Usbek (7A). We both flashed it but it seemed too easy so we introduced a few eliminants. It felt more like a 7A but still not there.

We moved to Maunoury and worked on Armoire et Merki (7A) and Waimea (7A). I got almost all moves on the first one but could not link more than 2 moves. The holds were too far apart and compression was hellish. The crux in Waimea was a huge dyno. I don't see myself sending this for another year.

We finished our session in Petit Sablé (7A+). We were advancing quite well but the rain started pouring and we had to stop. We waited for a while and then headed back to the parking lot. But in the back of my mind, I still had hope for Le Plafond. Roofs fear no rain! The night was settling in and I didn't have any time to waste; I only had 10-15 minutes before darkness would overwhelm that beautiful roof. After falling on the first move a few times... badaboum!!! Three minutes after my send, the cave went dark and the holds were invisible. It was my last chance and I made the most of it. Unfortunately, the video is all dark; you can only see a shadow moving on the rock. Next time I'll be there, I will send it again and film it. I loved the moves too much.

The weekend of May 3-4 was another surprise. On Saturday, I went to Isatis to try three 7B+'s: Le Cachou, Boudin Noir and Iceberg raccourci assis. However, it was too hot and my fingers kept slipping. I am now wise enough to know when to renounce an effort if the conditions are not there. I headed for Canon to join some friends.

After hitting the blue and red circuit, I joined two friends that climb in the 8th degree so it was time for crunching! After sending a 6B/6C (more like a 6A), I started on a project on the same boulder, the sitstart of red 25. Red 25 (6A+) is quite morpho: 6A if you're tall, probably a 6B+/C for shorter climbers. I wanted to do the sitstart but my friends told me they couldn't figure it out. According to their topo guide, it was a 7B. After 30-40 minutes, I was able to link it and was ecstatic because the moves were physical but beautiful. During a short debate on bleau.info, some expressed the opinion that it was hardly a 6B+. That shows how controversial grades are.

After that, we joined our friends who were working on Full Metal Jacket (7B+). I was rather apprehensive about this one since a mutant friend had told me it was very hard. Four tries later... I sent it! The real problem with this rock is that the starting point is very high so many pads are needed for short climbers. I was told to use the rock on the right and I did. That didn't change anything (compared to stacking pads); the moves were within my realm of expertise: a heel hook and arm locking. So I worked on the sitstart. I got all but one moves within 20 minutes. I am going back in a few days. I think two one-hour sessions will be more than enough.

The next day was spent at Isatis. I did some circuit and then sent Le Faux Baquet (7A) and La Traversée du Faux Baquet (7A+).

I spent most of the day doing easy problems. I did, however, send L'Angle du Sérac (6B+) which I considered hard (I am bad at arêtes). This made me think L'Angle Ben's (7A+, to the right of the arête) is not impossible. I will put 10-15 tries every time I pass by. I also did a mantle exit that was too hard for me last year. It only took me two tries. It is the exit of an unnamed 7A. Last time, I had all the moves except the mantle.

May 8: We started at 95.2 and Symbiose (7C). There were two moves that were morpho and I had to find a different beta. After 2 hours, everything was down except for a move and a half. I need another two sessions I think. I also tried Symbiose gauche (7c), its left version, and almost sent the crux. Before leaving for another sector, we sent Tentation (7A). It took us a few tries to find the beta.

Next stop: Roche aux Oiseaux. Brazil (7A) did, once again, not budge. It is starting to get on my nerves. I almost sent the crux but in the linking efforts, it would not work. My beta is too physical but it is the only one that has worked. I then tried Le Mandarin sans convention (7B) which consists in getting a pinch with the right hand and then matching. Last year I had deemed this impossible and during this winter, I worked a lot on my pinching, having this boulder in mind. This time, I sent all the moves. I tried to link but had forgotten the beta for matching. I would keep my left heel hook under the roof, which made the matching impossible.

Ça Tend à droite (7A) is probably the easiest 7A I have met. We all flashed it. I sent it another time out of curiosity; still a 6A. Satan m'Habite debout (7A) took me 5-6 tries. I then tried the longer version. I sent all moves in two or three tries and tried to link before leaving the sector. I almost got it but my fingers were bleeding. I did not film any of this since my battery was dead and I had forgotten all 5 batteries at the previous sector.

While working Symbiose, the skin of my right index ripped/tore and I got a huge wound one centimeter wide. This made me take a break for about a week.

Tired of all the Paris-Fontainebleau back-and-forth, I decided to camp there for three straight days.
Day 1 (Saturday 17th): Franchard Sablons and Franchard Hautes Plaines. I went to the former to check a project a friend had suggested. I spent about an hour discovering the sector but found no boulder to my liking and went back to my project, Fragment d'Hébétude (8A), a traverse on an underhang. The crux is very tough and reachy so it will take me a lot of time. I thus tried the last part. After an hour and many, manys betas, I realised that I had the arm span to do the move that I was trying to avoid and circumvent for an hour. I was introducing 4 extra hardcore moves for no reason whatsoever. Go figure... I linked the last part (starting right after the crux) and left.
I had only been at Franchard Hautes Plaines once. After looking around for a while, I stumbled upon my first project, Bloc.fr (7B). I am known for my lack of orientation (I need a map, I am not a bee, for crying out loud!) so I was glad I had found it. Last year, it seemed very reachy (because it is). First move is a right shoulder locking, then you've got more reachy moves. I was curious whether I could do that first move, I didn't care much about linking. After about 90 minutes, I sent the problem and was getting very happy with my physical development.

I had been told Lapin ou Canard (7A) was a piece of cake!

The left version, Ah, Plus Facile! (7A+), was a wholly different story. It took me more than an hour to find the right beta. Climbing without a spotter made me too cautious and I was looking for safe betas. Every single beta I would use, I would hit reach an impasse after x moves. And then it hit me. I had an idea, tried it out and was able to do the crux. I immediately linked it. I later discovered there was a 7B version, Tom et Géry, that I can send with the same beta. Call me vain but I can't say no to another line on my resume...

Sunday: Gorges du Houx Oiseaux de Proie to try another project, Bicarburation (8A). I started my warm up on Le Bi se Marque (7A+) but it was too reachy. I needed to take a swing with two fingers and sacrifice them in the process but it wasn't worth it. An hour later, we started working on À l'Envers (7C+), the shorter version of Bicarburation. I sent all moves except for one and was able to link in two parts. I think I have the beta for that move but didn't try it out. I should be sending the 7C+ in June.

We left for Gargantoit (7A+). After a couple unsuccessful attempts during which my mind wasn't letting me try the move (falling from this boulder can be quite dangerous), I found how to take the key hold and gave it a good try. I almost made it. I needed another 20 minutes but we needed to move on to other projects since I was the only one working on that boulder.

Next day: Apremont Ouest. Temperatures were very high and climbing was going to be insufferable. I had three projects in my mind but one was expo and the other one was exposed to the sun. I thus spent my entire session on Orphéon (8A). I did the first and last parts but the middle needs work. I tried many betas for a single move and almost got it. I think I can send this but it will take me at least 10 sessions. I have to match my right hand while holding an undercling with the left one and my biceps are not powerful enough. I am hitting the gym in a hours for some weight lifting.

The positive thing about my three new projects is that they are not exposed to the sun so I can work on them during the summer!