Episode 16: Up and down and up again!

Saturday, 5th April: Off to Franchard Cuisinière. I have been wanting to revisit La Mouche for months. I started with a long warm up on the blue circuit of Franchard Isatis and then went for Respect d'Intention (7A). It took me 25 minutes. That set the mood for the rest of the day.

I had sent all the moves of La Mouche (7A+) last year and in only one session. My beta demands for five extra moves but it is less painful that the classic, morpho beta. This time, there was one move I could not send. My finger tips had been burning from the day before so I did not want to exercise too much pressure. Plus I only had one pad and could not reach the holds to work that move separately.

There were two minor projects I had on my mind. The first one was Le Mouton à 5 Pattes (7A). I tried the dyno beta but found it too weird so I went for a static beta with a rough right shoulder locking. It took me 90 minutes to get it right. The Polish guys cheering me on and yelling "Dawaj!!!" (IPA [davai]) helped a lot.

About 50 m away, Blocage Mental assis (7A+). I tried the standing version (6C) last April but was a bit scared of the final dyno. This time, I kept falling and falling but I trusted my spotters enough and went for it. 

Once I linked the standing version, I tried the sitstart version. Last year, I couldn't do the move because the holds are too far apart and I did not have the strength to hold them with the tip of my fingers. This time and only 5 minutes after sending the 6C version... in the pocket!

My finger tips were weary and a five-day rest was necessary. Alright, I admit: I went to the gym during those five days but it was only twice!

Saturday 12th: we decided to spend the weekend at Maunoury and Dame Jouanne. The day started with Baloo (7B). There are only three moves in this boulder and I knew all three were morpho but I thought it was possible. The entire boulder is rather easy when you are tall. There is a great video comparing three betas. Watch for the first beta in the third video (grimpeur: Gary Goldfinger). The right shoulder move is very powerful and sent a chill down my spine but I got it on my third try. I also almost got the dyno at the end; I had my fingers on the last hold. Next time maybe or the time after that...

I sent Cuicuishovsky (7A) in less than an hour. Finding the beta was the tricky part.

5 metres to the right: Soupçon (7A). It took me two tries (I should have flashed it but I listened to a friend although I knew I should avoid the minor dyno). A very interesting boulder but definitely not a 7A.

We finished the day with Le Plafond (7B+). I got all the moves in two tries but could not link it. My beta was not perfect and given the reachy nature of most of the moves, I needed to perfect everything.

Sunday morning and after a mildly chilling night's rest, back to Le Plafond. I was given 30-40 minutes to link. Unfortunately, my climbing shoes are not rigid enough hence the heel hooks were too unstable. I fell twice on the last move but the real problem was the sitstart. My left heel hook kept slipping. I was disgusted. From now on, I will be taking my Python shoes with me.

And back to the Cuicuishovsky and Soupçon boulder to link the direct version of Cuicuishovsky: Cuicuishkaniev (7A+). A technically very challenging problem that took me less than ten tries.

We tried on to Oasis (7B+) but this problem was far too reachy for me. I was able to do the first dyno but the second move will be impossible unless I get stronger biceps.

The sitstart for Rituel (7A+) is massive. I was rather close yet too far in that first dyno. I think it is possible but I need to work more on those kinds of moves.

Sanseveria (7A) is a beautiful yet simple prow. The exit can be somewhat scary but I went for it. I took me three tries.

We ended the weekend with Jet Set biscuit (7A). I came up with a direct version for the dyno and only needed another two centimetres; I touched the rim of the hold but I needed to grasp it properly.

Tuesday 15th was a depressing day. Warm-up in Sledgehammer (7A). This trav needed some cleaning up but I was still able to do all moves except for two. Footholds were either great or nonexistant. I think I can link it next time but I am not very hopeful.
Then we moved to Zermatt Express raccourci (7A). I wanted my friend to try it out so in the meanwhile, I worked the mantle exit again, just to keep my juices flowing.

And then, the project of the day: La Mare. I put 10 sessions in this boulder last year but it still would not budge. This time, I thought I would send it like it was nothing. You can guess the outcome... Three hours of consistent tries and nothing :-( The funny part (it is funny now but not on Tuesday) is that I sent the two hard moves on my second try but I stumbled upon a new crux. I could not, for the life of me, switch feet on a certain hold. I spent the rest of the day being depressed. Not linking was a disgrace. But something kept bugging me... why on earth could I not do this move? I went home and immediately watched the video of a previous attempt from last year. I had the move all wrong! Within seconds, my mood changed completely and I finally realised that La Mare was in the pocket. I will be going back in a few days.

Tuesday night, the tip of my fingers was pink and burning like fire but I had told a mate that I would accompany him to Rocher Fin. He had a 7B project and I had many projects from last year.

Warm up with Soleil Levant (7A). There is one crux in the middle, with a right arm lock to get the arête on the top. I sent this beautiful line quickly. After the linking, I tried the crux of the left-to-right version, Soleil Couchant (7A); I sent it on my first try. Given that I wasn't alone, I left this trav for later in the day.

After 40 minutes on Les Serbes (7A+) and with no feasible beta in sight, we moved to Anak Krakatoa (7A). In this roof+crack, every move requires serious arm locking. Last year I could not send any move at all. This time, I went into it half-heartedly. My friend abandoned the problem after only a minute and moved to another boulder but I stayed behind; I found a beta within minutes. Cracks and roofs are very technical and the importance of footwork is paramount. This said, the last move is morpho and I had to pull a lot of my weight with my right index in order to reach for the hold. For me, that move deserves a 7A+ on its own. An hour later, done!

Before moving to the project of the day, I joined my friends at Narine à Voile (7A). I wanted to redo it and film it. It took me two tries. Probably a 6B. Last year it had taken me seven tries.

I was all warmed up, stoked and motivated enough to attempt Sous-Dur (7B). Last year, I missed the linking by nothing. The crux in my beta is when I let go of the left toe hook and start swinging while holding two crimps. The real problem is that you are only centimetres off the ground and you need to keep your feet and legs high enough. After touching the pad twice in a row while attempting to link, I removed it and tried again. The heel hook that comes after is wobbly and serendipitous. I fell twice because my heel was not rigid enough. I decided to use my old Python shoes for the first time after 10 months. They worked like a charm! This boulder represented a testing area for this year, just like La Mare. I needed to send it in order to prove to myself that I had become a better boulderer.

I now had to choose between two projects: Le Nain Vert Sait assis (7B) and Guerre et Paix (7A). I had finished all moves of the former last year but the latter was more challenging. So I chose the latter. I started with the crux: a 2.5-finger hole and dyno to the exit. I had watched two friends suffer on that move (the hole is painful) so I knew what I was getting myself into. I concentrated, tried to come up with a static beta and I got the move on the first try! I was dumbfounded. But within 2 seconds, I discovered another crux: an uncomfortable mantle deserving a 7A+ on its own. I got it on my second try (note: hours later I discovered a simpler beta). One move left: the sitstart. The hold was even worse and more painful than the 2.5-finger hole. I tried many things but my skin was too damaged. I wanted to dyno to the good hold but the starting hold was hurting my right index (the same index I used for Anak Krakatoa). In the aforementioned video, the guy is using a morpho beta so the sitstart is to be solved.

I finished the session with Soleil Couchant. I tried it to flash it but fell on the very last move. I spent 10 minutes to find a clean exit and then linked immediately.

My fingers are bleeding so I am taking two days off before attacking my big projects.