Episode 19: My winter training on slabs

My time away from this blog does definitely not indicate an absence from Bleau. These past two months, I have been in great shape. This means spending a lot of time for climbing and less time for anything else. Alright, I admit I was a bit too slaggish to write but mostly I have been having some problems with the video editing. I decided to edit all the new videos and add scrolling titles but this turned into a nightmare. During conversion (from .mov to .avi), my usual software went crazy and all videos got distorted. I knew I could only correct this by learning how to manipulate some video editing software (avidemux, avisynth) with programming and got to work. This has been taking me a lot of time but once I am done (I'm not very far), the gain in time will be huge.

Only days after my return from Spain (I have yet to finish that post; lazy, lazy, lazy...), my fingers as well as both my knees started hurting so I decided to take some time off. And as we all know, with time off (slacking off) comes lack of motivation for Font. But after one week away from the bouldering Mecca, I went back with some friends and my hunger for bouldering came back at once; this time, greater than ever. Given the amount of climbing and sends of the past two months, this post will concentrate solely on slab climbing.
Last year, I wanted my first 8A to be Duel, the most classic slab of the forest. At the time, I loved slab climbing but had never tried one in the 7th degree. When I finally did, I rapidly found out that slabs are painful as hell. Each time I worked on a 7A slab, I would leave the boulder with one finger bleeding. So up until very recently, I had never sent a real slab.

This all changed this past month. In order to gain some physical force (shoulders and biceps) and avoid finger injuries, I had stopped using nasty crimps and had somewhat changed specialties. Then, a close buddy of mine uttered this insult "this year, I don't find your finger strength very impressive". That irked me a lot and hit a sensitive note (probably because it was true). I decided then and there to go back to slabs and get some finger strength.

My first slab was La Chicorée (7A) at Bas Cuvier. This problem offers too many holds so finding the beta was a bit tricky. The first move is rather hard and took me 5-6 tries. Then, I couldn't understand what to do. I would take a crimp and just pull. After my 10th try, a female climber joined me and went for it. Her beta was so obvious that I could not believe I had not thought of it! She fell just before topping it. I sent the problem on my next try. I only had to use two holds where most people use four or five.

A few days later, we went to Apremont. There is a beautiful slab, Le Mur des Lamentations (7A/+) that I wanted on my "resume". The first two moves were quite easy for me (I took a diagonal crimp with my left hand, I put my right foot rather high and locked my left shoulder. This is how I sent La Chicorée as well. The last move took me more than 8 tries. I could not find the right foothold. Too low, then too high, then too far away... My slab partner of that day suggested a specific hold that he was using and badaboum!!!

On my next try, I sent the easier version of Le Mur des Lamentations, Lamentations (6C+/7A), which consists in using a jug just before the final hold.

A week later and due to uncertain weather conditions and humidity, I went to 95.2 whose boulders are known to get dry quite fast due to the lack of trees and a high altitude.

First boulder: the classic Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7A). Due to my practically being a dwarf, I could not get the first left-hand hold correctly so I had to do an extra move and rotate my body to the left in order to get the best out of the left-hand vertical crimp. After 4-5 tries, I almost sent the boulder statically, which is not an easy feat. I fell while touching the top jug. After that, something went wrong (fatigue maybe?). I kept trying but nothing would work. After an hour of one fall after another, I moved on to other problems to give my fingers a rest. No, I was NOT giving up.

I moved to Les Sabots d'Hélène (7A/+). This one was a bit tricky since I only had one pad and no spotters. My first try failed because my beta was too reachy. On my second try, I got the two holds on the ledge, I put my right foot high and started pushing. I pushed and I pushed and then realised that the final hold was very far away. I locked my left arm and went looking for a hold for my right hand. I found an almost invisible crimp on which I put my index fingernail, I locked my index with my thumb and started putting weight on it. It worked! That move was insane! Oh... that's why there was no chalk on it!

After visiting two old projects (non slabs) that were humid and meeting one of the greatest boulderers of the 20th century (you will have to wait for my next post ;-)), I went back to Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours. This time, there were a French guy, an Englishman and a Swedish couple working on the boulder. Good company is a great motivator. I gave it a few tries but was having big problems with that initial vertical hold. I couldn't understand how to get it right. After falling twice with the final jug in my hand, I stacked 3 pads and explored the vertical hold. Within seconds, I found the correct place for my fingers. Next try: kaboum!!!!!!!!!!

Fausse Danse (7A/+) is located 2 meters to the right of Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours. Same style but harder. After 3-4 tries, I decided to use the female climber's beta and sent the first two moves. I fell with the key hold in my fingers because the move was reachy therefore I had to put my weight on the point of my left foot and I kept falling. I knew I could do it so I pushed through pain (the right hand hold was a nasty, tinny tiny crimp) and sent it. This problem is simply beautiful (when done right).

Last week was another "slab week". On Friday 21, I went to Cuvier. I had some slabs to send, I was with friends and in top shape so my motivation was up, up, up! Unfortunately, the rocks were quite humid. After working on a 7B+ traverse and a 7B/+ boulder (they should fall next time), we met Michel Buisson, a real "Bleausard" (an experienced Font "resident") who showed us the beta for La Vie d'Ange (7A). Real nice problem with the crux on the last move (at 3-4 meters from the ground). I almost sent it on my fourth try but with the key hold being humid, I could not apply the necessary pressure on the undercling. Another 3-4 tries and I got it properly. My recent experience with risky boulders has helped a lot and I am now able to stay calm when far from the ground.

After flashing a nice 6B/+ traverse opened by Michel, I went to try La Ricoré (6C/7A); the difference in grading depends on whether one uses a good hold for the last move. I decided to go for the 7A version. Having already sent its neighbour, La Chicorée, I was very optimistic. Onsight!

Then, Igor Bogdanoff, a well-known Bleausard with whom I had climbed before, told me about La Cocktail (officially a 6A; 6A my eye...), one meter to the right of La Marie-Rose, the first 6A of the forest. La Cocktail was 10 times harder than La Marie-Rose and apparently, many experienced climbers can not send it, which motivated me even more. Since then, I have asked around and everyone seems to agree that it is undoubtedly a 7A. After two silly falls, I fell on the crux. You get an aggressive crimp with your right hand, you get your left foot high, lock your right arm and reach for a sloper that is quite far. While reaching for the sloper, my right hand slipped (the crimp was wet) and lost 2-3 layers of skins. On my next try, I was determined and sent it like it was nothing. The moment I did the last move, I turned around and said "Definitely a 7A".

Michel and Igor took me to Le Croque-Mort (6B). The only hard part is getting off the ground and reaching for the next hold. After that, it was easy. I flashed it. That first move was beautiful and demanded good abs to hold the barn door.

I finished the day in La Moussette (6C/7A, another problem with two versions). It was my second session on this problem. This time, I was able to do the first moves and got the sloper with both hands. I got my feet up and then, I was supposed to turn my left hand (which is holding a crimp) and use it as a support (apply pressure on my wrist). I tried many times but could not find the right balance. I am going back for this one.

Two days later and after a sucky weekend during which almost everything was soaking wet, I went back to Cuvier. I had tried Lady Chatterton (7A) before. During that first session and after 25 minutes of painful crimping, my fingers could not take it any more. This time, accompanied by a friend, I tried it again. After 2 tries, Romain suggested another idea. Two attempts later, ... :-) My original beta was much, much harder and I definitely want to get it to work so I will go back and try again.

Update: I just discovered that this beta was actually Pied Main Lié, a 6B+ version. It felt more like a 6C+. Oh well, I was going back there anyway...

Last weekend, I went back to 95.2 with two friends. After warming up, I saw two guys working on a wall. I checked the Jingo Wobbly guide: Manchuria, 7A. I sent it on my third try. I found the moves to be quite difficult, especially the second-to-last; getting the right foot higher demands serious abs. The guys then told me it is actually a 6B+ (not again!). The next day, I checked on bleau.info, they were right. To me, it felt more like a 7A (and much easier than Les Sabots d'Hélène (7A/+).

These past days have been rainy so I've been hitting the gym. As soon as the rain stops, I am going back to Cuvier for La Super Prestat (7B+, 8 meters), La Super Forge (7A, 6 meters), C'est en Forgeant Qu'on Devient Fort en Jurons (7B) and Super Stalingrad (7A, 6 meters), and Gorge aux Châts for Rubis sur l'Ongle (7B+, 5-6 meters).

"Stay tuned for our next episode" dealing with various boulders (anything but slabs) from the past three months.