Showing posts with label La Mare droite. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Mare droite. Show all posts

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Episode 16: Up and down and up again!

Saturday, 5th April: Off to Franchard Cuisinière. I have been wanting to revisit La Mouche for months. I started with a long warm up on the blue circuit of Franchard Isatis and then went for Respect d'Intention (7A). It took me 25 minutes. That set the mood for the rest of the day.

I had sent all the moves of La Mouche (7A+) last year and in only one session. My beta demands for five extra moves but it is less painful that the classic, morpho beta. This time, there was one move I could not send. My finger tips had been burning from the day before so I did not want to exercise too much pressure. Plus I only had one pad and could not reach the holds to work that move separately.
There were two minor projects I had on my mind. The first one was Le Mouton à 5 Pattes (7A). I tried the dyno beta but found it too weird so I went for a static beta with a rough right shoulder locking. It took me 90 minutes to get it right. The Polish guys cheering me on and yelling "Dawaj!!!" (IPA [davai]) helped a lot.

About 50 m away, Blocage Mental assis (7A+). I tried the standing version (6C) last April but was a bit scared of the final dyno. This time, I kept falling and falling but I trusted my spotters enough and went for it. 

Once I linked the standing version, I tried the sitstart version. Last year, I couldn't do the move because the holds are too far apart and I did not have the strength to hold them with the tip of my fingers. This time and only 5 minutes after sending the 6C version... in the pocket!

My finger tips were weary and a five-day rest was necessary. Alright, I admit: I went to the gym during those five days but it was only twice!
Saturday 12th: we decided to spend the weekend at Maunoury and Dame Jouanne. The day started with Baloo (7B). There are only three moves in this boulder and I knew all three were morpho but I thought it was possible. The entire boulder is rather easy when you are tall. There is a great video comparing three betas. Watch for the first beta in the third video (grimpeur: Gary Goldfinger). The right shoulder move is very powerful and sent a chill down my spine but I got it on my third try. I also almost got the dyno at the end; I had my fingers on the last hold. Next time maybe or the time after that...
I sent Cuicuishovsky (7A) in less than an hour. Finding the beta was the tricky part.

5 metres to the right: Soupçon (7A). It took me two tries (I should have flashed it but I listened to a friend although I knew I should avoid the minor dyno). A very interesting boulder but definitely not a 7A.

We finished the day with Le Plafond (7B+). I got all the moves in two tries but could not link it. My beta was not perfect and given the reachy nature of most of the moves, I needed to perfect everything.
Sunday morning and after a mildly chilling night's rest, back to Le Plafond. I was given 30-40 minutes to link. Unfortunately, my climbing shoes are not rigid enough hence the heel hooks were too unstable. I fell twice on the last move but the real problem was the sitstart. My left heel hook kept slipping. I was disgusted. From now on, I will be taking my Python shoes with me.

And back to the Cuicuishovsky and Soupçon boulder to link the direct version of Cuicuishovsky: Cuicuishkaniev (7A+). A technically very challenging problem that took me less than ten tries.

We tried on to Oasis (7B+) but this problem was far too reachy for me. I was able to do the first dyno but the second move will be impossible unless I get stronger biceps.
The sitstart for Rituel (7A+) is massive. I was rather close yet too far in that first dyno. I think it is possible but I need to work more on those kinds of moves.

Sanseveria (7A) is a beautiful yet simple prow. The exit can be somewhat scary but I went for it. I took me three tries.

We ended the weekend with Jet Set biscuit (7A). I came up with a direct version for the dyno and only needed another two centimetres; I touched the rim of the hold but I needed to grasp it properly.

Tuesday 15th was a depressing day. Warm-up in Sledgehammer (7A). This trav needed some cleaning up but I was still able to do all moves except for two. Footholds were either great or nonexistant. I think I can link it next time but I am not very hopeful.
Then we moved to Zermatt Express raccourci (7A). I wanted my friend to try it out so in the meanwhile, I worked the mantle exit again, just to keep my juices flowing.
And then, the project of the day: La Mare. I put 10 sessions in this boulder last year but it still would not budge. This time, I thought I would send it like it was nothing. You can guess the outcome... Three hours of consistent tries and nothing :-( The funny part (it is funny now but not on Tuesday) is that I sent the two hard moves on my second try but I stumbled upon a new crux. I could not, for the life of me, switch feet on a certain hold. I spent the rest of the day being depressed. Not linking was a disgrace. But something kept bugging me... why on earth could I not do this move? I went home and immediately watched the video of a previous attempt from last year. I had the move all wrong! Within seconds, my mood changed completely and I finally realised that La Mare was in the pocket. I will be going back in a few days.
Tuesday night, the tip of my fingers was pink and burning like fire but I had told a mate that I would accompany him to Rocher Fin. He had a 7B project and I had many projects from last year.
Warm up with Soleil Levant (7A). There is one crux in the middle, with a right arm lock to get the arête on the top. I sent this beautiful line quickly. After the linking, I tried the crux of the left-to-right version, Soleil Couchant (7A); I sent it on my first try. Given that I wasn't alone, I left this trav for later in the day.

After 40 minutes on Les Serbes (7A+) and with no feasible beta in sight, we moved to Anak Krakatoa (7A). In this roof+crack, every move requires serious arm locking. Last year I could not send any move at all. This time, I went into it half-heartedly. My friend abandoned the problem after only a minute and moved to another boulder but I stayed behind; I found a beta within minutes. Cracks and roofs are very technical and the importance of footwork is paramount. This said, the last move is morpho and I had to pull a lot of my weight with my right index in order to reach for the hold. For me, that move deserves a 7A+ on its own. An hour later, done!

Before moving to the project of the day, I joined my friends at Narine à Voile (7A). I wanted to redo it and film it. It took me two tries. Probably a 6B. Last year it had taken me seven tries.

I was all warmed up, stoked and motivated enough to attempt Sous-Dur (7B). Last year, I missed the linking by nothing. The crux in my beta is when I let go of the left toe hook and start swinging while holding two crimps. The real problem is that you are only centimetres off the ground and you need to keep your feet and legs high enough. After touching the pad twice in a row while attempting to link, I removed it and tried again. The heel hook that comes after is wobbly and serendipitous. I fell twice because my heel was not rigid enough. I decided to use my old Python shoes for the first time after 10 months. They worked like a charm! This boulder represented a testing area for this year, just like La Mare. I needed to send it in order to prove to myself that I had become a better boulderer.

I now had to choose between two projects: Le Nain Vert Sait assis (7B) and Guerre et Paix (7A). I had finished all moves of the former last year but the latter was more challenging. So I chose the latter. I started with the crux: a 2.5-finger hole and dyno to the exit. I had watched two friends suffer on that move (the hole is painful) so I knew what I was getting myself into. I concentrated, tried to come up with a static beta and I got the move on the first try! I was dumbfounded. But within 2 seconds, I discovered another crux: an uncomfortable mantle deserving a 7A+ on its own. I got it on my second try (note: hours later I discovered a simpler beta). One move left: the sitstart. The hold was even worse and more painful than the 2.5-finger hole. I tried many things but my skin was too damaged. I wanted to dyno to the good hold but the starting hold was hurting my right index (the same index I used for Anak Krakatoa). In the aforementioned video, the guy is using a morpho beta so the sitstart is to be solved.
I finished the session with Soleil Couchant. I tried it to flash it but fell on the very last move. I spent 10 minutes to find a clean exit and then linked immediately.

My fingers are bleeding so I am taking two days off before attacking my big projects.

Friday, December 13, 2013

Episode 12: The Weetabix guy

A few weeks ago we visited Bleau twice but temperatures were far too low for me to climb. My body cannot function at 2 degrees Celsius. I'm Mediterranean, for crying out loud! I'm definitely spending next autumn/winter in a hotter climate.
The second time, we went to Éléphant. It was my first time visiting and I was eager to try its famous two-finger pockets but my fingers were frozen all day. I only sent two mini-high balls to get my blood pumping.
This one was a bit trickier...

Speaking of high balls, here's another one I sent back in August at Gorges du Houx. We hadn't found it on bleau.info but all holds were covered with chalk. It doesn't seem very scary in the video but at the end of the diagonal trav, you're already four meters from the ground and then you've got another 4 or 5 meters of vertical climbing. I would give it a 6A.

A few days ago and after having cancelled at the last minute three days in a row, I gave Bleau another chance and visited Rocher Canon. According to the weather channel, no rain had dropped for at least seven days and I was ultra-motivated to send my big projects. When we arrived, everything was soaking wet. We were disgusted and frustrated. That was a deal breaker for me. I had promised myself that I wouldn't go back to Bleau for the winter if I didn't send La Mare (engl. "pool, pond") on that day. As soon as we approached the boulder, we discovered that it had succumbed to the winter rain and had become a pool at least 30 cms deep.
Since the beginning of November, I have been trying out my new training schedule - jumps, dynos, arm locking, a lot of contortions and violent shoulder locking - at the gym and it has been paying off. I am sending a lot of routes in the 7th degree quite easily and already have two 7Cs under my belt. My project for the next two weeks is an 8A, 15-meter trav in a 60-degree underhang. I have sent most of the moves and I'm rather optimistic for the ones I haven't sorted it out yet. I sent the 7B trav on the same wall in only two sessions and I'm almost done with the moves of the 7C route.
After spending five months without lead climbing, I went back to Murmur Issy for a seven-hour session. I sent two 7a+'s, finished all the moves of another 7a and sent another ten, <7a routes. I was rather pleased with my performances on the underhanging walls. Hopefully, I will have the chance to lead climb at least once a week for the next three to four months.
Tomorrow is the opening of a new gym: Hardbloc. The premises seem exciting and entrance is free for the entire weekend so I'll have the chance to climb with many of my new and old friends. That's a great way to spend a weekend. I'm being careful with my left index (I got a crevasse between the distal and the intermediate phalanges) because it started bleeding two days ago. I was working on an intriguing 7A at the gym, my finger started getting red, I knew it was going to start bleeding but I didn't want to stop. I wanted to give the route just one last try. You don't have to guess the outcome, you know me better than that :-)
Last week I made an important decision that will most definitely motivate me even more. Most climbers, even amateurs like myself, dream of getting sponsored one day. For me, it is not about the money. I know I will never become a professional climber; I wouldn't want that kind of pressure on myself and besides, that would take years and years. It's about your hard work getting acknowledged. I admit, it sounds absurd: we are climbers because we love climbing and not out of an insane need to please others and yet, we need an external source of gratification. Maybe it is vanity, I honestly don't know. 
Anyway, I decided to pursue the one company I have adored for many years: Weetabix. I have been consuming two to three packs a week of their main product and have a lot of respect for their mentality. Their biscuit format has been helping me control my calorie intake and from a nutritional standpoint, they are the best cereal out there (only rivaled by Kellog's All-Bran that are a tad more expensive and slightly heavier on sugar and salt). I have therefore given myself 18 months to come up with a project to attract their attention. If only half of my new year's resolutions go as planned, I will get one step closer to becoming the (new? first?) Weetabix guy. It's a bird, it's a plane, it's the Weetabix guy!

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Episode 03: Things are picking up

This week has been quite hectic. Nine straight days of climbing have had a toll on my body. Plus, I've been on a diet for about four weeks so I can't perform at 100%. But the great news is that I'm down to 58 kilos (2.5 kgs already lost). I need to lose another 2 kgs and then I'm done.
Monday was lead climbing day at Viaduc des Fauvettes. Grading there is very unique and definitely tough. 5b, 5c+, 6b+, 6c and 6a+. The 6b+ was by far the toughest one, definitely in the 7th degree. 6c was a walk in the park. I was very pleased with the entire session. My visit to Millau in July has helped me a lot. I now am able to better concentrate and push through fatigue, stress and uncertainty.
After getting a small flapper on my left middle finger for the second time during La Mare (yes, THAT Mare) on Tuesday and unable/unwilling to climb hard problems after that, I took Wednesday off and did some light bouldering at Apremont Ouest (orange circuit). The day finished on some physical 6's.
On Thursday I visited La Canche aux Merciers by bike. 32 kilometres for the round trip. I had some unfinished projects from back in April. I was able to finish the hard part of Narine droite (7A) in only two attempts and was delightfully surprised. But then, I couldn't figure out the 5C-6A part in the beginning, which used to be a no-brainer. After about 10 attempts, I sent the boulder.

Poisson Pané was a tough one. It seems like a very simple rock because of the ridiculously easy first part but the second half is physical. The right heel hook necessary to reach the right handhold is very technical and takes a bite at your energy. Heel hooks being my specialty, I expected it to be a piece of cake. After working this move, I finished all the other moves and tried to send the problem. I kept falling on the same move: the body is hanging from the right hand (a crimpy sloper) and you need to lift your left foot above the waist by pulling your weight with the right hand.
I also repeated a previous 7A (Pattes de Coin). Last time I flashed it; this time it took me three tries.

I finished the day in Poulaga Run, a 7A traverse. The sitstart is very difficult and after many, many tries, I called it a day. I was able to "send" the rest of it very quickly.
As soon as we got back to Paris, we exited the train station and headed for the nearest kebab restaurant. I do not allow myself to eat kebabs more than once every 2-3 months but after such an exhausting day, it was exactly what we needed. Plus, I had lost a bet to my friend - he sent the Narine before me - so I had no choice (I love excuses that allow me to eat like a pig).
Friday: Viaduc and lead climbing. The day started great. Two 6a's with a minor underhang part. And then a 6c (En route pour le 7a, 31 m) in which I put everything. After sending it on the first try, I knew it was probably the hardest route I had ever done. But after a break, we decided to climb Père vert pépère (6b+, 31 m).under the sun. It was at least a 7a/7a+. Painful one- and two-finger holds all the way. On my first try, I finished the first half after pushing for 15 m and then asked for a break. I then sent the rest. Motivated by my need to tame this monster, I gave it another try. Unfortunately, my right foot slipped around the third quickdraw and I took a minor plunge. I got immediately back on my feet and sent the rest. Next time she's mine... To this day, I have sent 61 out of the 110 routes at the Viaduc.
Saturday: after all these days of climbing, dieting and cycling, my body was tired but I needed the exercise. I tried Poisson Pané again but same thing. So I decided to do the blue circuit. 44 boulders of pull-ups and dynos. I tried to keep my heart rate up by not taking a break between problems.
Finally, they are announcing rain for today (Sunday); this will make me take some time off. I have to get some work done for my project.
Other than that, here are some items I decided to buy this month. I only mention them because I consider them a great deal. I have already received and tested all but the first one and they were definitely worth the money spent:

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Episode 01: A week at Rocher Canon

I suppose a rainy day is the most appropriate day for me to write my first post so here's the recap of this past week...
After having spent 4-5 sessions on my projects at Rocher Canon, boulders started yielding. I have recently started filming my bouldering. Given my height (1,65 m) and my creativity (call me Mr HeelHook!), I know I can contribute new betas to bleau.info. Most videos there come from very strong climbers who use 7B+/7C betas to climb 7A or even 6A boulders. Plus, it helps me understand what goes wrong. Climbers and dancers are much alike on many levels (one of them being the extent to which we torture our feet). And of course, I want to be able to hear this phrase one day: "wow, grandpa, you were like a super hero!"
Wednesday: I had been told Bonsaï (7A) was a hard and weird problem. I only found 5 public registrations on bleau.info, no photos or videos. I was too eager to try so no warm up. It took me an hour and a half of puzzle-solving to understand and master all the moves. The camera started rolling and I was ready to send it. Ready, my ass! It took me an additional hour to send and the battery went out a few minutes before that. Arggh! After realising I was forgetting to turn my hips by 4-5 centimetres to the left, I sent it effortlessly. This boulder has taught me 3 new handholds.
I had been wanting to try Le Cervin (5B, 40 blue) for some time but hadn't had the guts (6 meters). This time, I just went for it.

Tuesday: After two one-hour sessions and a near send a few days earlier, I was ready to send a classic 7A, Compressman. Definitely one of my favorite boulders. I gave it a try and I was able to go all the way up to the next-to-last move! I was quite surprised and gave it another shot. Same thing. My hips were too low so I didn't have the arm span to reach the hold. I locked my left arm at a lower angle and, this time, it worked like a charm. To fully appreciate the video, turn the volume up. This will make the sound of my slapping the rock even funnier.

The day finished with La Mare droite (7B). This is my 5th or 6th session on this boulder. If you don't know it by now, I am a patient man who doesn't like failure or quitting. I had done all but two moves in two sessions and since then, I had been working on the first move: you have to lock your left arm and jump to the right. Dynamic moves are my worst nightmare: I have almost no precision. I have now tried this move at least 60 times in 5 sessions, maybe even 80 times (I lost counting, to be honest; after 50 tries, it all becomes a blur). I gave it a first try and it worked! I fell on the second (and last) crux which necessitates another arm lock (my second weakest point). Five tries in total and the first move worked every time. I was optimistic.
I decided to work the second crux and my arm lock. On my second try, I was able to reach for the left hand in a static manner. You have to insert your fingers into the hold so a dyno is not a smart choice. I tried once more to be sure and again, I succeeded. Now I know I am gonna send it next time.
I'm off to Decathlon to buy a lantern (spot light). These next days, I want to finish some ongoing projects that include hard slopers so climbing during the day is not an option: