Episode 11: One day you're a champion, the next day you're back to feeling like a f*cking loser...

After a few days of rain, it was time for me to join the gym. For the next 12 months, I have chosen BlockOut'2. I spent Sunday and Monday at the gym and then the weather channel promised three straight days of sunshine; that got the smile back on my face.... an opportunity for me to send a few more ongoing projects!

On Tuesday, I joined a friend at Franchard Isatis with one thing and one thing only on my mind: Le Lot de Boudins (7C). After slagging off for 30 minutes, I tried to calm myself down, I brushed the handholds and tested the key hold: a sloper that I hadn't been able to hold on to for the past four months. The moment I touched it, my hand slipped and my heart froze. I kept screaming "F*ck" in my head at the top of my ... synapses. I just had to do something about my fingers. Having slippery fingers AND a half-injured right index doesn't leave me with much (hence my lackluster performance this summer). Then I recalled an article I had recently read about the (in)efficiency of chalk and how humidity might provide some extra adhesion. I thus came up with a trick: I washed my hands and when they were about to completely dry off, I applied some chalk. The idea behind this was that the water would help accentuate the ridges of the finger prints so that chalk could enter them better. I tested the sloper and voilà! I tried to send the problem but my already-successful-in-April beta needed some tweaking. The two big moves were too haphasard therefore I started working on a new beta for half an hour. Three tries later.... in the pocket! I think my beta can become a classic since it has been optimised and it suits all sizes. Moreover, I sent it without much effort, which gave me hope for the there-and-back version (7C+). Plus, my moves are cool :-)

The day ended with De Brevitate Vitae gauche (7A). I had sent the right exit version back in March (my second 7A ever).

The next day started with Babaobab (7B, Rocher Canon). The slopers are so slippery that you have to find the perfect weather conditions. I sent the sitstart like it was nothing (once again) but the rest of it was still impossible. The sun had been hitting the slopers for more than an hour and by 9:15 (that's how motivated I was), it was already too late. I will go back on a gloomy day in December-January.

After that, I headed for Cuvier to finish two problems and try out a new 7B. Gradubidov (7A) was first. I had almost sent it a few days earlier. After 45 minutes, she was mine. I like this type of boulders: weird dynos, compression and hand/foot matching.

Banlieue Nord direct (7A) is a very tough boulder. This was going to be my fourth session on it. Apart from the starting hold, everything else is a sloper. The last part is hardcore: a nasty left foothold and diagonal slopers... what's not to like? The first move consists in reaching for a left-hand sloper which is the key hold. If that one doesn't hold, you switch to a different boulder. I washed my hand and gave it a try. The adhesion was brilliant and I got optimistic. After an hour and a half, I sent it! The exit was a bit ugly (I used both knees) but I was too ecstatic to care.

I finished my session with Rencontre Plafonnique (7B). I almost got the sitstart but the heel hook was extremely painful. After only one try, it was throbbing but I kept going at it. I touched and almost grabbed the hold at least 7 times, which is a good sign. The next move seems quite morpho. I sent the rest of the problem three times. I will go back for that first move.

Today (Thursday): I planned to visit three sectors for three different projects. First one: Master of Puppets. It took me an hour and a half to get that first move right, which made me lose my marbles. I got another two moves but the key move (a left heel hook) wasn't right. I got furious and decided to leave. This was the first time I ever quit a project and ended my session this abruptly. Having lost all motivation, I didn't want to work on the other projects. I returned to the train station yet after a short break, I left for Roche d'Hercule. There is a 7A+ trav that I hadn't finished yet (always wet) and I also had to finish the easy version of my own trav (6B+/C?). It took me 10 minutes to reach the parking lot (that's fast!) but both boulders were wet. I got even more frustrated and headed back to the station. I needed to get back home so bad that I covered the distance in only 8 minutes.

My failure on Master of Puppets got me thinking that I need to find a source of happiness in my life. Bouldering is great but 95% of the time, I feel frustrated, disgusted with myself or mad. As soon as I get a problem right, a failure will come along and take that away from me. I need to cool down and change my perspective and the way I deal with failure. And I obviously need to focus on my work (programming) and my side projects to get some self-respect. I can send a hundred 7B's but there's always going to be a failed boulder buzzing around in my head.

Now that I have joined the gym, I will give it my all. I have three priorities: dynos, arm/shoulder locking and travs in roofs. I have come up with some exercises that might help me advance in a rapid pace. Tomorrow I'm back at the gym doing pull-ups with added weight. My previous max was 22.5 kilos so I will try 25 kgs or maybe more.

And here's a gift: a montage of 22 (I think) attempts on Magic Bus (7B+) that I tried a few days ago. You will enjoy the sound of my ass hitting the pad.

Update: I just watched my video of Master of Puppets and I was actually not half as bad as I thought. I'm feeling much better now, I will be able to sleep tonight.

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Episode 10: Nothing special

Sunday, October 6: Roche d'Hercule. The roof was wet again so I decided to explore the adjacent boulders. Just 100 meters away, I found a great wall for my warm-up and immediately got the idea to open a 25-meter traverse!

According to the topo and curiously enough, there was nothing opened. I started working the left-to-right trajectory after realising the other way around wasn't as appealing. Before trying out the holds, I saw two problems: one that traverses low and another one using the top holds; around 7A and 6A respectively. I was in for a big surprise. After 2 hours of hard work, I was able to send all the moves of the low-pass trav but she was exhausting as hell. The best/worst element: there is a 7A crux at 18-19 meters from the beginning hold! It took me 10/15 tries to figure out that sequence and I only got it right once. Same thing with the first crux: a sequence of 4 moves in the 6C/7A, five meters from the beginning. I then tried to at least send the easy trav but she was too long. I only got 15 meters. I need another session with her.

While working on the travs, I tried out Fenbren le Fou (7B) with my buddies. I put 3 attempts using a friend's beta although I knew it wouldn't work but he was insisting. After that, I tried out a "harder" beta and sent it in only three tries. Probably a 7A/7A+. But after having a debate with a friend, I am having some doubts about our betas. We used a hold that the setter doesn't use.

Monday: climbing alone. I first went to Rocher Canon. And no, I did NOT touch La Mare. I've been patiently waiting for 5 months for the perfect weather conditions and though I knew it wasn't the day, I needed to try Babaobab (7B) again. I warmed up a bit and then summoned up all my courage for the sitstart. I consider the first move to be a solid 7A+/7B and wasn't sure I was going to get it. I was able to send that move in 10-15 tries in May but since then, nothing! Since May, I lost weight, worked my biceps and got much stronger in shoulder/arm locking, all being key ingredients for this move. First try, I dynoed too hard and went beyond the hold! Second try, I touched the sloper/pinch but couldn't hold it. Third try: she's mine but still a bit too shaky. I then found a lower hold for my right foot and sent it like it was nothing. The rest of the problem is based on your ability to hold on slopers and the weather was still too hot. I need to wait for another 2-3 weeks. I couldn't even do a pull-up on the slopers which is always my way of knowing.

I got back on my bike; destination: Bas Cuvier. I wanted to revisit two boulders: Super Bouze (7A+) and Banlieue Nord direct (7A). I tried them both in June but wasn't able to go past the first move (actually, I couldn't even do the start of the Bouze). After 90 minutes on the latter, I got 1.5 moves this time! I still don't know yet whether my beta is correct and I can't find any videos online. I almost sent Banlieue Nord direct but kept (six times) falling on the last move.

Tuesday: the great deception! I wrote down 15*7A/B projects in Cuvier and went back. I tried to send Banlieue but the first hold was very slippery. I put another four tries but I knew it wasn't going to cut it. I spend 1.5 hours looking for the other projects. I only found 3 or 4 and they were either too ugly or too difficult. I ended up doing a circuit but Cuvier, as everyone knows, is over-visited so footholds have been polished for many years.

Wednesday: the team was back together. Two new sectors: Avon and Avon Ouest. We started Master of Puppets (7B). Such a beautiful line. I almost sent it and then, after a short break, I couldn't get past the first move any more. This is why I hate taking breaks. My body forgets too easily.

The first part of Retour de Bas-Ton (7A) was rather simple but the end was quite physical. Nice line as well.

La Voûte Étoilée (7A) was quite easy as well. I almost flashed it but it finally took me around five tries.

On Saturday, we went to Rocher Brûlé. Everything was wet so we found a tunnel to work on. Éclair à la Vanille (7B) and Éclair au Chocolat (7B) are practically the same problem; only difference is the exit, hardly a 5B in either case. After a few tries, we almost had gotten the moves right but then, my friend ripped off the key hold - a huge jug. I think the problems are still doable but rather in the 7B+/7C (not sure about this). This is what happens when you are not light as a feather.

We immediately left for Buthiers Piscine where my friend wanted to revisit Magic Bus (7B+). This roof has no breakable holds so we weren't hesitant about trying it out. We got all the moves right (it took me more about an hour and a half) but sending it was not in the cards. The tricky part is the dyno out of the roof. I got the move only once so I kept working on it before attempting to send it. No luck... I tried another beta but it was as difficult.

After a few days of rain, I went back to Canche aux Merciers to send some old projects dating back to April. The conditions were not good enough: slippery fingers and slimy holds. It's been months that I have no fingerprints so I can't hold a sloper to save my life. My sense of touch is 95% gone and I don't even know when my finger tips are wet (I use my wrist to test the humidity of the rocks). At that moment, I decided to do some hiking.

Le circuit des 25 bosses is a well-known, 20-km hiking circuit that traverses the Trois Pignons Forest. I started at 12:15 and tried it counter-clockwise. After getting lost in the first part, I went back to the starting point and went the other way. I started up at 2:00 and was able to finish it in 4 hours! It was quite difficult. half way, The pain started settling in but I wouldn't go back, I had to do it. When I got back to the starting point, my body was aching very hard, I couldn't bend my legs and I kept wondering how I was supposed to get on my bike and pedal for another 15 km back to the train station. Miraculously, as soon as I started biking, nothing else mattered! It only took me 55 minutes to the station, which is the fastest I had been. Miracles can happen after all. Well, it depends on your definition of a miracle because at this moment, two days later, I still can't stand on my left foot.

One good thing came out of this hiking journey, however: I am now at 56.5 kilos!

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Episode 09: Fed up with cycling

Dieting and cycling are taking a toll on my body. It's been a month I've been taking my bike to Font', cycling for 40 minutes at a time, with 5-6 kilos of equipment on my back. This, combined with the reduced amount of food I've been receiving because of my diet, does not allow me to perform at 100%. For some reason, I am able to cover the same distances in the same amount of time or less but each time, it is getting harder and harder.

Of course, sacrifices have to be made. I needed to get my weight down and this goal is being achieved. For the past four days, my weight has been stabilised at 57 kilos (from 60.5 at the end of August) and I am hoping to reach 55 kilos by the end of this month. After that, crimping will be more pleasant and I'll be sending crimpy problems much faster.

On Friday, I went to Roche d'Hercule to try out a nice roof. There are at least seven distinct problems on that roof and I just needed to get a bite of all that. I started with Rince-Doigts (7A). After reading the problem, I hesitated between two betas. As always, I opted for the less feasible one and missed the flash. A second try was all it took. Not really a 7A.

My favourite one was Rince-Mi (7A). I tried to send it statically but the two-finger holds were too painful. I decided to dyno my way out of the roof; it took me another 20 minutes to master the move. This said, I didn't mind this delay because I loved the exit.

Idée Courte (6B+), Idée Fixe (6C+) and Idiotie (6B) were easy flashes. Traversing the exterior side of the roof is ugly due to its slabby nature that does not allow you to use your feet effectively. I didn't enjoy those moves. You are holding huge jugs at all times but the foot placement is simply ugly. The videos are here, here and here.

Trop Beau pour Toit (7A+) seemed like a piece of cake. The first part is the same as Idée Courte but you then traverse to the left. I misread the description and introduced unnecessary "eliminants" (the finger holds under the roof) and the problem quickly became too hard.

Abribus (7A+) is a right-to-left-to-right-to-left-then-up-the-roof loop. There must be about 35 moves in it and I was tired. I gave it 3 tries but kept falling after three-thirds of the problem.

On Monday, the rocks were wet. We went back to Apremont but we had to wait for a few hours. I started with a nice mantle, (Tank, 6B+). My topo gave it a 7A+ and I wanted to confirm the grade. Sadly, the bleau.info 6B+ grade was correct. I flashed it without breaking a sweat and while the rock was all wet.

The only boulder dry enough was Hueco Départ (7A). It took us 8 tries. The sitstart is very easy but the third move is pure compression at around 7A+. The last part is supposed to be a 5B but I would give it at least a 6B/+. Plus, you do not have the right to fall because there's a nasty, sharp rock calling out your name.

Next day I woke up and was dying to wrap up some old projects. Destination: Franchard Cuisinière. I started my warm-up with S'il Vous Plaît (7A). That boulder almost drove me crazy last time I tried it. Every single team member had sent it except me. Although its rather morpho nature makes the obvious beta (dyno to the right-hand jug) difficult, I would not give up. During that first session, I had put almost 50 tries in less than an hour. Some call this perseverance but let's be honest: its real name is OCD. This time, I knew what I needed to do: dyno my butt toward that three-finger left-hand crimp. It only took me five tries and got me all pumped up for the next project.

Undertow (7A)... what a hellish nightmare! It must be how Hades used to punish naughty climbers. I had already spent 3 sessions on this rock and each time, I had to start from scratch. I don't know why, I just couldn't figure this out. This time, motivated by my previous success, I gave it my all. About 8 attempts in, I got it! Unfortunately, the exit was as ugly as an exit can get.

I finished my day with La Mouche (7B+). I sent the last move back in May and the rest of it around June so I was optimistic. This time I pulled off all but the last move, which I had done on my first try in May.

Wednesday: I woke up at 7 a.m. to get to climb all day. Destination: Isatis. Unfortunately, it had rained all night and everything was soaked yet we were able to work a few boulders. Respect d'Intention (7A) was tough but after an hour, we finished all the moves. Then this nameless 7A with one of the ugliest exits I've seen. After that, I finally got to try El Poussah (7A), a classic. Given that the intended right toe hook was out of my reach, I tried a straightforward approach. I now have to learn how to hold on that right-hand sloper without my right foot slipping. Humidity didn't help but either way, I need another 50 tries to master that move. But I'm rather confident. I just saw a video of this boulder and will change my beta next time: I will use a left foot for the first move so that I can free my right foot.

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