Episode 12: The Weetabix guy

A few weeks ago we visited Bleau twice but temperatures were far too low for me to climb. My body cannot function at 2 degrees Celsius. I'm Mediterranean, for crying out loud! I'm definitely spending next autumn/winter in a hotter climate. The second time, we went to Éléphant. It was my first...

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Episode 11: One day you're a champion, the next day you're back to feeling like a f*cking loser...

After a few days of rain, it was time for me to join the gym. For the next 12 months, I have chosen BlockOut'2. I spent Sunday and Monday at the gym and then the weather channel promised three straight days of sunshine; that got the smile back on my face.... an opportunity for me to send a few...

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Episode 10: Nothing special

Sunday, October 6: Roche d'Hercule. The roof was wet again so I decided to explore the adjacent boulders. Just 100 meters away, I found a great wall for my warm-up and immediately got the idea to open...

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Episode 09: Fed up with cycling

Dieting and cycling are taking a toll on my body. It's been a month I've been taking my bike to Font', cycling for 40 minutes at a time, with 5-6 kilos of equipment on my back. This, combined with the reduced amount of food I've been receiving because of my diet, does not allow me to perform at 100%....

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Episode 08: Man vs. Pitch black: 1-0

These last days, I have been feeling stronger and stronger. On the 18th (Wednesday), we went back to Marion des Roches to finish some projects. Sans Pompe (7A+) was the first one. It had rained on the eve and everything was slippery. I gave it a try and fell on the first move. I got frustrated and...

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Episode 07: Bouldering is like gymnastics

Three days off due to constant rain and my slightly sliced index so our need to climb was boiling up. The usual weather cast for Sunday: rain in the wee hours, light rain during the rest of the day, but we still crossed our fingers and made the trip to Marion des Roches. I started with Pierrot (7B)....

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Episode 06: I am back!

I am finally back to my old self! We spent Saturday at Rocher des Demoiselles, a very beautiful sector and my first time there. We started with Le Repos du Sphinx (7A). I put in about 20 tries but it...

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Episode 05: Slowly back in shape

After 10 days of rest, I decided to head back to Font' on Sunday and give my right index a test drive. For some reason, the skin on my fingers was slippery and I couldn't hold anything. I sent a few easy problems and then tried a 7A+ and a 7A. I spent the rest of the session spotting a friend. My finger...

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Episode 04: On why being cocky is a sin

After nine consecutive days of climbing and thanks to a pessimistic weather cast for Sunday, I decided to take 2 days off. I spent all Sunday going from my bed to the desk chair and then back again every few minutes. I think I got three siestas. I spent all day doing absolutely nothing. Monday morning,...

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Episode 03: Things are picking up

This week has been quite hectic. Nine straight days of climbing have had a toll on my body. Plus, I've been on a diet for about four weeks so I can't perform at 100%. But the great news is that I'm down to 58 kilos (2.5 kgs already lost). I need to lose another 2 kgs and then I'm done. Monday...

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Episode 02: Mediocrity, Thy will be done

In my last post and while talking about La Mare, I wrote "Now I know I am gonna send it next time." How dumb and conceited was I... That bitch just won't budge! I spent another two sessions since those famous words and still nothing. I'm starting to flip out. I came home a few hours ago all frustrated,...

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Episode 01: A week at Rocher Canon

I suppose a rainy day is the most appropriate day for me to write my first post so here's the recap of this past week... After having spent 4-5 sessions on my projects at Rocher Canon, boulders started yielding. I have recently started filming my bouldering. Given my height (1,65 m) and my creativity...

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