I haven't posted anything on my blog for almost four months because of the endless rain we've been having around here. The weather conditions notwithstanding, these past months have been a major revelation. I got rid of many mental blocks I had been carrying around and which were due to my inexperience in climbing, I learnt how to push my body to its limits and, most importantly, I finally got through my thick skull that external (weather) conditions are a major part of climbing. From now on, I will wait for the right conditions to send certain projects.
The second half of May was rainy so I took some time off Bleau and went back to the gym. Unfortunately, the artificial holds were too brutal for my fingers and the pain came back.
The second half of May was rainy so I took some time off Bleau and went back to the gym. Unfortunately, the artificial holds were too brutal for my fingers and the pain came back.
I spent most of my late May sessions at Apremont. This huge sector containing at least 5 subsectors is filled with great projects. I also wanted to try an 8A traverse that looked feasible.
My first problem there was Ménage à Trois (6C+). This problem is also the exit of Remue-Ménage à Trois, a 7B traverse. The real crux is finding the correct foothold. Funnily enough, I could not send the 6A problem just 50 cm to its left (the exit of a 7A variant of Remue-Ménage à Trois), even after at least 25 tries.
I spent the rest of the day trying out three problems with a group of Canadian and British climbers and then with two French guys. Nothing fell but I had a great time. That's the beauty of Bleau: you can go all alone and yet come to spend the day having a blast with complete strangers.
Two days later, I went back to correct my previous failures. After failing to send a very hard 7A mantle (still do not know its name) and then Happy Boulder (a reachy but fun 7A+), we moved to Faux Contact (7A+). Last year I could not get the double dyno at the start. With the new beta (using a left undercling), it took me 20 minutes.
Two days earlier, I kept falling on the last move of Légitime Adhérence assis (7A). This time and for an unknown reason, I sent it on my first try. This is the maturity I lacked last year: even after having sent all the moves, it would take me for ever to link a problem. This year, as soon as I get the last crux, I link within minutes.
I finished the day in Les Caprices de Benje (7A). I fell on the final move which I had already sent without breaking a sweat. Go figure... Anyways, this traverse is the first part of my 8A project (its second part being Légitime Adhérence assis) so now I am confident I can send the entire thing. The only thing missing is linking the two problems. I haven't tried the move but it seems within my reach.
Two days later, I went back to the same sector. Among other things, we tried Le Rétablissement (7A), a very cool but stressful boulder. Falling on the mantle was definitely not an option. After sending it, I tried the longer version (La Traversée du Rétablissement, 7A+) but fell on the crux.
A week later, I went back to Gorges du Houx. First project in hand: Ligne de Mire (7A). I wanted this really bad after two sessions last year but was pessimistic. The crux consists in using a very polished left foot and dyno-ing to a sloper. I tried many betas in order to avoid that blackened foothold but nothing worked. It was time I learnt to trust my feet. As soon as I got the crux... surprise surprise, it was not over yet! I fell on those last moves quite a few times before getting it right.
After spending the day on Mille-Pattes (7A), L'Arête (7A+), Jessica Hyde (7A+) and Écaille de Lune (7C), I went back to Bicarburation (8A) but I was not very motivated. I tried out the second part again and linked it within 10 minutes so I left happy.
June 12: Rocher Canon. For the first time, I tried Retrouvaille (7A), a very simple mantle problem. I liked it so much that I sent it twice.
My friends wanted to try Les Câlins de Kim, my very first 7A last year. I was not very sure I could send it again but I wanted to film it. After five tries, badaboum!
The was a cool traverse I wanted to try, Gros Câlin (7A) but that meant I had to first send Red 04. Last year I could not send a single move; the crux is very reachy and for someone my height, getting that undercling with the left hand means adding 3 moves. After many (and I mean many) tries, I got it! I then moved to the traverse. Once again, there was a move that was out of my reach. I tried many betas but the only one that worked seemed more like a 7B/+. I need more strength for that move.
The following week: Apremont Envers. Religion Verticale (7A) took me five tries. So while I was waiting for my buddy to send it, I started working on the sitstart (7B). I almost had it three times but was too afraid to dyno toward the two-finger pocket. Later that day I discovered that what I was doing was not the "real sitstart" (7B) which starts 1 meter to the right and seems much easier. In my version, I start with a painful left-hand three finger pinch/undercling and a slopy right-hand crimp and then dyno to the two-finger pocket. I am going back in a few days and will do the first ascent. It should be around 7B/+.
After failing miserably at Scout Toujours (7A) and Poséidon (7A), we moved on to the main attraction of the day: the famous Tijuana roof. I sent El Paso droite (7A) and Tous les Délices du Mariage (7A+) in 10 and 20 minutes respectively. I then started working on Clandestino (7B) and Welcome to Tijuana (7C). After about an hour, I had all moves but by then, the slopers had gotten too slippery and I called it a day.
Next day, back to finish my projects. We started with Poséidon. I went directly for the sitstart version (7A+). For some inexplicable reason, I sent it like it was nothing whereas the previous day, I could not hold on to that left-hand sloper. I even sent the crux statically!
Very confident, we moved to Scout Toujours. Once again and whilst I had failed miserably the previous day, I sent this one within 20 minutes. I was ecstatic. I will upload the video as soon as I do the montage.
The description of Paul's Boutique (7A+) was not very clear on bleau.info. We flashed it but it didn't make any sense. I tried the sitstart (7C) but it was very uncomfortable: you sit between two rocks, the pad makes your body tilt to the right or to the left... simply infuriating. We then tried Tactic (8A) and Exit (7B). The former is a dyno to a sloper whereas the latter is a nice traverse on two-finger pockets with a powerful arm lock. I linked Exit up until the mantle. Then, it's all about nonexistent slopers. Definitely not a 7B. Both have to be done in winter.
Bali Balan (7A) was too hard for me so I tried a static version (FA?); maybe a 6B.
We finished the day in Welcome to Tijuana. I found out that I was missing the 3rd move so I worked on it. Again, slopers were too hot for a link.
After having read that La Fissure des Alpinistes had been the first 5C of the forest (FA in 1934!), I just knew I had to try. The second part is tricky but I did not want to use the left arête. It is called "fissure ..." (crack) for a reason, isn't it?
We finished the day in Welcome to Tijuana. I found out that I was missing the 3rd move so I worked on it. Again, slopers were too hot for a link.
I spent the following week at Franchard Cuisinière. The first day started with two 7A mantles: La Débonnaire and La Récréation. The description of the former is inadequate so I think I did not respect the line. I then moved to the latter. This mantle is really, really hard. I want to go back and spend another hour on it. I just love mantles!
The Wall (6C+) is a technical dyno. I was surprised to have send it within 30 minutes.
The sitstart version (7A) went down 5-10 minutes later. I also tried Syphilisse (7A) but all the moves were hard.
The day finished with La Réta Franklin (7A). I sent this cool mantle in 2 tries.
I went back the following day. Syphilisse did not fall so we moved to Bizarre, Bizarre (7A). After this arête went down, I tried the sitstart version (7A+). I was getting close but we had to move on.
I had tried Fighting Spirit (7A) the day before and had sent all the moves except for the crux. I had come up with MANY betas but nothing worked. In every single beta, I was only centimeters or milliseconds away but it was too difficult. I had tried the most obvious beta (the left shoulder lock in 00:19) twice but it seemed too tough for me. This time, I was accompanied by a different friend. I showed him the line and he immediately asked "Have you tried using a left-shoulder lock?". He insisted I had the power and I wanted to prove him wrong so I went for it. The first try was pathetic but in the second try, I did the move! What the hell?!? I linked 15 minutes later. I was very proud about this one.
At the end of the day, we went to Échine (7B+). What a beautiful problem... Slightly overhang-y (not my style) with shallow monos. I did not want to work on it but my friend motivated me. I only sent the first move. I worked on the next ones and got close on all of them so maybe after another two sessions?
Two days later, I went back but the heat was extreme. All the pockets were moist, the air was heavy... It just felt like torture so I took some time off Bleau and went back to the gym. Rain settled in for another few weeks.
Around July 25, we went to Saussois for three days, one of the most legendary spots for sport climbing. It was our preparation for the month of August. Not surprisingly, holds were completely polished (legendary = much visited). It was the first time I had ever encountered this type of slippery rock. The first day was a bit stressful but after we got the hang of it, we started feeling more comfortable. The second day welcomed us with a lot of rain; we didn't get to climb at all all day. The third day, we tried as many routes as possible, up to 6c. I tried a largely undergraded 6c crack (most probably a 7a/+) but was too afraid to trust my feet. I did, however, link it top rope. I know, I know, but it's better than nothing!
And then came August. But I think this post has already become quite lengthy so I will dedicate a new one to the incredible trip filled with awesome moments. To be continued...
