Friday, August 23, 2013

Episode 04: On why being cocky is a sin

After nine consecutive days of climbing and thanks to a pessimistic weather cast for Sunday, I decided to take 2 days off. I spent all Sunday going from my bed to the desk chair and then back again every few minutes. I think I got three siestas. I spent all day doing absolutely nothing.
Monday morning, my body was itching for some exercise so I took my bike to Bois de Boulogne - just a few minutes from my place - and did the Parcours sportif, a 3-km fun exercise circuit containing 25 exercises most of which include "instruments" made of wood. For the rest of the session I wandered about in the park, mostly around the lakes. As soon as I got home, I felt my right index complain again. It has been more than a month that it is bothering me, since the day I did half a pull-up using my right index and middle fingers on a slab at Cuvier.
Two days of rest and no healing. It still hurt so I decided to take two weeks off. I will spend this time swimming and biking to burn as many calories as possible. And I will keep working on my youtube project.
Tough luck but this is what happens when you make bad choices. I've always been careful with my fingers but my pride and ego got the best of me. After realising I can do pull-ups with two fingers on each hand, I have been cocky and this time, I paid for my sin.
The good news of the week: after pondering on different 8A problems and various factors (do I need more than one crash pad or/and a spotter? Is it expo? Is the Font' sector reachable by bike or on foot?), I think I have picked my first 8A project: Pied de Nez (Le Grand Nez en aller-retour). It is on the same boulder as Narine droite which I sent last week. It is a traverse, only one meter from the ground (which is covered with sand) therefore I can work on it as often as I need and want to. And I can go there by bike. And I can sleep under it!
Till next time (in a couple of weeks)...

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Episode 03: Things are picking up

This week has been quite hectic. Nine straight days of climbing have had a toll on my body. Plus, I've been on a diet for about four weeks so I can't perform at 100%. But the great news is that I'm down to 58 kilos (2.5 kgs already lost). I need to lose another 2 kgs and then I'm done.
Monday was lead climbing day at Viaduc des Fauvettes. Grading there is very unique and definitely tough. 5b, 5c+, 6b+, 6c and 6a+. The 6b+ was by far the toughest one, definitely in the 7th degree. 6c was a walk in the park. I was very pleased with the entire session. My visit to Millau in July has helped me a lot. I now am able to better concentrate and push through fatigue, stress and uncertainty.
After getting a small flapper on my left middle finger for the second time during La Mare (yes, THAT Mare) on Tuesday and unable/unwilling to climb hard problems after that, I took Wednesday off and did some light bouldering at Apremont Ouest (orange circuit). The day finished on some physical 6's.
On Thursday I visited La Canche aux Merciers by bike. 32 kilometres for the round trip. I had some unfinished projects from back in April. I was able to finish the hard part of Narine droite (7A) in only two attempts and was delightfully surprised. But then, I couldn't figure out the 5C-6A part in the beginning, which used to be a no-brainer. After about 10 attempts, I sent the boulder.

Poisson Pané was a tough one. It seems like a very simple rock because of the ridiculously easy first part but the second half is physical. The right heel hook necessary to reach the right handhold is very technical and takes a bite at your energy. Heel hooks being my specialty, I expected it to be a piece of cake. After working this move, I finished all the other moves and tried to send the problem. I kept falling on the same move: the body is hanging from the right hand (a crimpy sloper) and you need to lift your left foot above the waist by pulling your weight with the right hand.
I also repeated a previous 7A (Pattes de Coin). Last time I flashed it; this time it took me three tries.

I finished the day in Poulaga Run, a 7A traverse. The sitstart is very difficult and after many, many tries, I called it a day. I was able to "send" the rest of it very quickly.
As soon as we got back to Paris, we exited the train station and headed for the nearest kebab restaurant. I do not allow myself to eat kebabs more than once every 2-3 months but after such an exhausting day, it was exactly what we needed. Plus, I had lost a bet to my friend - he sent the Narine before me - so I had no choice (I love excuses that allow me to eat like a pig).
Friday: Viaduc and lead climbing. The day started great. Two 6a's with a minor underhang part. And then a 6c (En route pour le 7a, 31 m) in which I put everything. After sending it on the first try, I knew it was probably the hardest route I had ever done. But after a break, we decided to climb Père vert pépère (6b+, 31 m).under the sun. It was at least a 7a/7a+. Painful one- and two-finger holds all the way. On my first try, I finished the first half after pushing for 15 m and then asked for a break. I then sent the rest. Motivated by my need to tame this monster, I gave it another try. Unfortunately, my right foot slipped around the third quickdraw and I took a minor plunge. I got immediately back on my feet and sent the rest. Next time she's mine... To this day, I have sent 61 out of the 110 routes at the Viaduc.
Saturday: after all these days of climbing, dieting and cycling, my body was tired but I needed the exercise. I tried Poisson Pané again but same thing. So I decided to do the blue circuit. 44 boulders of pull-ups and dynos. I tried to keep my heart rate up by not taking a break between problems.
Finally, they are announcing rain for today (Sunday); this will make me take some time off. I have to get some work done for my project.
Other than that, here are some items I decided to buy this month. I only mention them because I consider them a great deal. I have already received and tested all but the first one and they were definitely worth the money spent:

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Episode 02: Mediocrity, Thy will be done

In my last post and while talking about La Mare, I wrote "Now I know I am gonna send it next time." How dumb and conceited was I... That bitch just won't budge! I spent another two sessions since those famous words and still nothing. I'm starting to flip out. I came home a few hours ago all frustrated, flustered and, of course, disgusted. I even promised to not touch that rock for another 3 weeks because it just upsets me to think I have already spent 9 sessions on it. But as you might have guessed already, the moment I made that promise, I knew I wasn't going to keep it.
A few days ago, I decided to redo the sky blue circuit at Canon and film everything. I am going to do the montage in a few days and upload it. I wasn't able to send 3 problems: one was rather suicidal, the second one quite dangerous and the last one plain difficult (5A a la Font'). I sent the latter last year while a beginner at Font' but this time, I wasn't up to the task.
Sunday, I took my bike to Isatis. I joined a friend, having one project in mind: Le Lot des Boudins, 7C traverse. I almost sent it a few months ago during my second session but fell on the last move (a 4A-move tops). I was rather optimistic this time but to no avail. I was able to do all the moves except for the last crux. The crimp is painful so you need to send the problem very fast. After 3-4 tries, you're done.
While being there, I tried two easy 7a's I had sent a few months ago, Quartier Latin and Plastikman. Both took me only one try. Here's the video for the former.
Starting tomorrow, I'm roaming Font' to finish every single boulder I haven't been able to send this year. If you don't hear from me by the end of the week, I might have admitted myself into a looney bin.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Episode 01: A week at Rocher Canon

I suppose a rainy day is the most appropriate day for me to write my first post so here's the recap of this past week...
After having spent 4-5 sessions on my projects at Rocher Canon, boulders started yielding. I have recently started filming my bouldering. Given my height (1,65 m) and my creativity (call me Mr HeelHook!), I know I can contribute new betas to bleau.info. Most videos there come from very strong climbers who use 7B+/7C betas to climb 7A or even 6A boulders. Plus, it helps me understand what goes wrong. Climbers and dancers are much alike on many levels (one of them being the extent to which we torture our feet). And of course, I want to be able to hear this phrase one day: "wow, grandpa, you were like a super hero!"
Wednesday: I had been told Bonsaï (7A) was a hard and weird problem. I only found 5 public registrations on bleau.info, no photos or videos. I was too eager to try so no warm up. It took me an hour and a half of puzzle-solving to understand and master all the moves. The camera started rolling and I was ready to send it. Ready, my ass! It took me an additional hour to send and the battery went out a few minutes before that. Arggh! After realising I was forgetting to turn my hips by 4-5 centimetres to the left, I sent it effortlessly. This boulder has taught me 3 new handholds.
I had been wanting to try Le Cervin (5B, 40 blue) for some time but hadn't had the guts (6 meters). This time, I just went for it.

Tuesday: After two one-hour sessions and a near send a few days earlier, I was ready to send a classic 7A, Compressman. Definitely one of my favorite boulders. I gave it a try and I was able to go all the way up to the next-to-last move! I was quite surprised and gave it another shot. Same thing. My hips were too low so I didn't have the arm span to reach the hold. I locked my left arm at a lower angle and, this time, it worked like a charm. To fully appreciate the video, turn the volume up. This will make the sound of my slapping the rock even funnier.

The day finished with La Mare droite (7B). This is my 5th or 6th session on this boulder. If you don't know it by now, I am a patient man who doesn't like failure or quitting. I had done all but two moves in two sessions and since then, I had been working on the first move: you have to lock your left arm and jump to the right. Dynamic moves are my worst nightmare: I have almost no precision. I have now tried this move at least 60 times in 5 sessions, maybe even 80 times (I lost counting, to be honest; after 50 tries, it all becomes a blur). I gave it a first try and it worked! I fell on the second (and last) crux which necessitates another arm lock (my second weakest point). Five tries in total and the first move worked every time. I was optimistic.
I decided to work the second crux and my arm lock. On my second try, I was able to reach for the left hand in a static manner. You have to insert your fingers into the hold so a dyno is not a smart choice. I tried once more to be sure and again, I succeeded. Now I know I am gonna send it next time.
I'm off to Decathlon to buy a lantern (spot light). These next days, I want to finish some ongoing projects that include hard slopers so climbing during the day is not an option: